AT Hike

It’s 8:00 AM and the sun is shining brightly. It’s still cold outside, but at least it looks like it’s going to be a sunny day. I’m gazing through the sheers from a table in the lobby of the Best Western in Helen, waiting for a shuttle back to the trail. I’ve begun my day with a huge breakfast of eggs, sausage, toast, jam, and coffee. I’m seated near the fireplace. A small fire burns. Now I’m ready to hike.

Carol Powell , the owner of the Best Western in Helen, graciously shuttled 10 hikers back to the trail beginning at 10:00. One other hiker, Cole from Texas, also was returning to the trail at Hogpen Gap, so we were dropped off together. Cole attended three semesters at Texas Tech before deciding to take some time off to hike. When we hit the trail just after 11:00, I quickly pulled away, knowing that I’d see Cole again “somewhere up the trail.”

The trail today consisted of several ridge lines with views to the east and west. I stopped often to take pictures and just enjoy the vistas. Snow and ice remained in some areas while others had converted back to mud. The abundant level sections afforded some faster miles. I’ve come to call this my cruise mode. On the climbs I “work hard” much like I did when hill repeats and track intervals were a part of my preparation for getting ready to run a road race a couple of times a month. On the descents I “go slow” since it’s these sections that present the greatest possibility of falling. Then when I hit those level places, I cruise.

Early in today’s hike I made really good time. I reached Low Gap shelter, at the 4.6 mile mark at 12:45. Even though the path down to the shelter was a quagmire, I wanted to sit at the picnic table and enjoy my lunch. I had decided to “eat fresh” today, having bought a footlong subway melt this morning before leaving Helen. I declined “making it a meal,” so only had water to drink. When I reached the shelter, a hiker I had talked to on the trail yesterday, Mark from Chicago, was there with his Jack Russell terrier, Hero. As we chatted Cole walked up.

Shortly after leaving the shelter I met two older hikers hiking SOBO (southbound). Leap and Faith were getting off the trail because one of them has a knee issue. I don’t remember who was Leap and who was Faith, but it was the lady who was injured. I wished them well after telling them about my website. A little later I came across two section hikers, Kyle and Jake, a dad and son from that town in GA just south of Chattanooga, which right now I can’t remember how to spell. They were getting ready to hike off the AT at the blue blazed Jacks Knob Trail and return home.

Just before reaching the Blue Mountain shelter, I encountered three hikers taking a break. Early yesterday I had passed the trio of Mei Mei, Rosy, and Highlighter, but had not stopped to talk. Today I did. Recognizing that they were tired and cold after spending consecutive nights in the frigid woods, I suggested that they consider a town night. They were mulling over my recommendation as I hiked onward. After separating myself a good distance from the group, I took a brief break to finish off the other half of my subway.

On the downward approach to Unicoi Gap, numerous rocks of varying sizes required a more concentrated descent. Although I slipped a few times, I managed to cover the 14.3 miles today without a fall. Hoping for a hitch at Unicoi Gap, I noticed a white pick-up in the parking lot as the road came within view. Robert, vacationing in Helen with his 12 year old daughter Victoria, was more than happy to offer a ride. He smiled when I told him he was now an official Appalachian Trail Angel. Robert calls Cape Coral, FL home, but says he loves the mountains. It was a real pleasure riding back into Helen with the two.

After showering I walked down the road to have supper at Wendy’s. Just as I was entering, I spotted Mei Mei, Rosy, and Highlighter in line. They had taken my suggestion. They said yes with smiles when I asked if we could dine together. They seemed much happier than they had been a few hours earlier, clean and enjoying town food, ready again to continue their quest of thru hiking the AT. I felt their enthusiasm.

Today’s hike rewarded me with many special moments. Of them all, however, I think the most special was getting to see Hero again. Don loved dogs. Even though he and Lisa had not owned a dog recently, two neighborhood dogs had taken up dual residency at their home. Don fed, bathed, and provided a comfortable pillow to relax on for Buster and Chautsey. Don would have really loved Hero. As I hike each day, I continue to be reminded of my brother’s kindness. He was a compassionate man in many respects. I could imagine him bending down to pet Hero before walking on up the trail through a place he always felt at home, the woods.

This morning at 7:30 Josh and Leigh served a breakfast of pancakes, eggs, oatmeal, and grits before shuttling all the hikers back to the trail. I sat by Alex, the young man from England, and enjoyed watching him try grits for the first time. After finishing off a bowl, he declared that he liked them. Also at the table were the group of 4 from Maine, a mom and her two young adult daughters from Ohio, a older fellow from South Africa, and a young lady from Nova Scotia. Everyone else was starting their hikes today, so I don’t how many I’ll see again.

Fortunately I was the first in the van to be dropped off. When I began my hike at Woody Gap at about 9:00 the temperature hovered around 28 with flurries just beginning. I hiked in snow and wind all day. Walking through a dusting of snow made for an enjoyable day. I’ll take snow over mud any day. Eventually the ground froze as the snow increased. I saw no other hikers for the first few miles, so I just enjoyed the peacefulness.

Climbing Big Cedar Mountain at the beginning of today’s hike posed somewhat of a challenge, but since it was early in the day and I had had a hearty breakfast, I made it to the summit without too much difficulty. Just before Lance Creek I stopped for a break to have a snack and take some pics. Shortly thereafter I saw my first hikers of the day, four southbound section hikers. Later I also met Pilot, a section hiker from the Boston area. We chatted briefly before I headed on up the icy trail.

By the time I started the accent of Blood Mountain, the wind was howling and the trail had become an icy path. About half way up I caught up with Kristen, who is going to Davenport Gap. We hiked together over the icy rocks to the summit and Blood Mountain shelter, a stone shelter that is off limits to overnight stays due to bear activity. Matt and his buddy were holed up without water and carrying less than appropriate gear. I was a little concerned for the two. I felt better when a family out for a day hike from Neel Gap arrived with extra water and food.

After a short break and adding a layer of clothing (my Adidas hydro dri fleece), I started the hike down Blood, arguably the toughest mile on the Georgia AT. The icy rock faces required a slow, meticulous decent. Still I made good time and managed to compete another day on the trail without a fall.

So on day three I got to walk into Walasi-Yi at Mountain Crossings and see George, Pirate, and many of the other former thru hikers who work there. George took my pic for their Facebook page and arranged for sleeping accommodations. Since all the bunks were taken at the hostel, I’m sharing a cabin with three young folks, Wal-Mart from Columbus, Ohio, Boomerang from Rochester, NY, and Overalls from Oklahoma. Nick, the last to arrive, is hiking in overalls, so when he told me he didn’t have a trail name, I dubbed him Overalls. He liked it. Overalls is also hiking with a loaf of bread hanging off his pack.

Today was another good day on the trail. For much of the day I was given the privilege of experiencing the beauty of my snowy surroundings immersed in solitude. I felt my brother Don’s presence with me in the powdery woods. It was peaceful and serene. Don would have enjoyed today as much as I did because as we all know by now, Don loved the woods.

All in all, it was a very good first day on the trail. The journey began with a drive up a series of mountain roads with the destination of Big Stamp Gap, one mile north of Springer Mountain. Unfortunately, however, after Scotty made a wrong turn somewhere along the way, we wound up at Nimblewell Gap, at the 6 mile mark of the approach trail. So rather than a 9.1 mile day, I hiked 10.9. Officially though, I’m at the 8.1 mile mark on the AT.

As a result of my good buddy’s navigational error, I might be the only thru hiker ever to begin a hike at Nimblewell Gap. It proved prophetic in a way because I met former thru hiker Hopeful on the way up to Springer. He had hiked in 2003 and again in 2011. I had read his journal, so it was a real treat to be able to meet and chat with him. I also appreciated the advice he offered.

Overall, the terrain of the hike today was fairly easy, at least by AT standards. I thought of Don often. I also met several other hikers along the trail including a family of four from Asheville, two section hikers from St. Augustine, and a few thru hikers. Lucky is a young fellow from Ireland who is traveling with a hiker from the Netherlands that he met at the Hiker Hostel. Daypack, who also thrued last year, is here tonight as well. All together there are around 25 hikers at the campsite.

I’m tenting next to a couple of retired army officers who have kept me laughing the entire time I have been writing this with a variety of stories from their pasts and some interesting planing strategies for the next few days. Dave and Phil seem like some genuinely nice guys who served their country in Vietnam. They plan to hike about 700 miles, so hopefully our paths will cross again over the next few weeks.

Well, the campfire is blazing, so now I have to decide whether to remain in my cozy sleeping bag and listen to some music or join the younger hikers by the fire. Since it sounds like light rain is beginning to fall on my tent, I suppose I’ll stay put. Before closing for the night I want to thank my beautiful, supportive wife Linda and my wonderful sister-in-law Lisa for sending me off in style. I’m truly blessed with a loving family. Only one day has passed, but if today is any indication of what is to come, it’s going to be a wonderful adventure on the Appalachian Trail.

Don loved the woods.