Monthly Archives: December 2012

Last Times

Rachel and Her Friend, Amber

Rachel and Her Friend, Amber

Sam's First Year of Baseball and Rachel

Sam’s First Year of Baseball and Rachel

Catch in the Backyard

Catch in the Backyard

Last week I took my mom to buy a new stove. The stove she had cooked on since, in her words, “before your daddy died,” had served her well. It had offered up many a Thanksgiving dinner over the years, so it almost seemed appropriate that the oven would cease working on turkey day. In all likelihood, it will be the last stove that she will ever need. Still, like buying an appliance or a baseball glove, we never know when we are doing something for the last time, that is unless we’re old or facing death.

When my son was only three or four years old, we began playing catch in the backyard. Many an afternoon, through his days of T-ball and later Little League, we would toss a baseball back and forth until dusk. He went through a phase where he wanted me to throw high flies and then another where he preferred grounders that he could scoop up and fire to a first baseman dad. I don’t know when we last played catch, but we did. It probably was toward the end of his last season of organized ball, but I don’t know exactly on what day.

My daughter loved to swing on an old metal play set, also in our backyard. We have photographs and videos, as well, of me standing behind, pushing her into the air. The pigtails of a six year old fluttered in the breeze on a chilly winter day. Even in the cold, she still enjoyed this time to spend with her dad. These carefree, innocent days of childhood were fleeting even as they transpired. I don’t know when I last swung her, but I did. On one of those days of winter, or perhaps in springtime, we walked back into our home after an hour of happiness that would never be shared the same again.

In March of 2013, I hope to stand at the base of the plaque on Springer Mountain, which designates the southern terminus of the Appalachian Trail. A little over five months later, in late August, I hope to be posing for a final photograph at the marker that sits atop Katahdin. Both events, if they do come to pass, also in all likelihood, will be for one final time. Throughout the spring and summer, as my mother cooks on her last stove, her son will be travelling north, working hard to complete a thru hike of the Appalachian Trail, both for the first and last time.

As I walk from Georgia to Maine, I expect to meet many other travelers. Some of those may become friends with whom I’ll later exchange a Christmas card or perhaps call to wish a happy birthday. Others I’ll see for a last time somewhere along the way. We won’t know it at the moment. We may not even remember where it occurred. All we will realize, and come to appreciate even more keenly over the years, is that we walked together, fellow pilgrims toward a destination and a dream. As Ulysses says in Tennyson’s poem, “I am a part of all that I have met.” Each of us will become a part of the other, when we initially exchange greetings, and also when we say our goodbyes, for what very well may be a last time. Life has so much to offer, and so does a journey along the Appalachian Trail.

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Full Pack Practice

A Lake Along the Hike

A Lake Along the Hike

Last week I received an email from a former thru hiker who has been reading my journal. Bob was the same age when he completed his hike that I will be when I hopefully finish mine. I’m definitely listening to some of the advice he has graciously offered. To begin with, he told me that he started hiking regularly with a full pack about a year before he left from Springer. With fewer than four months remaining before my departure, I decided that it was time to go for a hike.

I retrieved the old Kelty Tornado from a storage room off my garage and loaded it with 32 pounds of hard cover books. At least that’s the weight that the bathroom scale indicated. After adding a bottle of Gatorade and another of water, I shouldered the pack and headed for a nearby park. With the temperature in the upper 40’s and a bright sun overhead, the day looked like the perfect one for that first “practice hike” in preparation for March.

The hike began in a fortuitous manner as I spotted a shiny nickel before travelling the first one hundred yards. I bent down and picked it up, remembering days of youth when finding a coin brought so much excitement to a boy of ten. Those were the days when a found quarter would purchase a coke, a candy bar, and a comic book as well. So I pocketed the five cent piece, partly for good luck, but mainly just for reasons of nostalgia. If I had been on the AT, I might have left it where it lay, not wanting to add extra weight.

As I walked toward the park through neighborhood streets, the pack felt odd at first. By the time I reached my destination, a little less than a mile from home, I was again getting accustomed to the added weight on my back. So for almost exactly three hours I walked on wooded trails. They were fairly flat, with only minor undulations along the way; however, my 8.6 mile walk proved to be a good workout. Twice I stopped for short breaks of about five minutes each, and I paused three times to speak with acquaintances who were also out for a stroll on a beautiful afternoon.

Walking along a lake at various times while in the park, I asked a couple of fishermen if they were catching anything. One replied that he had just arrived but motioned to another who he said had a “bucket of fish.” I didn’t stop to look, but I know that I would have, if I had been hiking on the AT. I look forward to chatting with locals along the trail, especially those who are sitting by a pond, lazily passing an afternoon.

When I arrived back home and evaluated this first hike with a full pack, I was pleased to find that other than a little stiffness in my right hip, everything seemed to feel fine. Still, it was only 8.6 miles of rather flat terrain. But I was carrying over 30 pounds which is no small order. After I decide on a new pack and other significant gear, I’ll hopefully get the pack weight down considerably before arriving on Springer. The day was a gorgeous day for a hike in the park, as I’m sure many days will be when I start my walk on the Appalachian Trail.

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AT Serendipity

Ponder, Alton, and Mike in Manchester Center, VT

Ponder, Alton, and Mike in Manchester Center, VT

View from Wayah Bald

View from Wayah Bald

During the winter and spring of 2005, Alton and I again found ourselves planning yet another section hike on the Appalachian Trail. This hike was to be different from the others for me, because I would be hiking the second week alone. Just like the previous summer’s trip up to the northeast, we departed from the Atlanta airport with LaGuardia in NYC as our destination. From there we rode a bus to the Port Authority and another bus to the Delaware Water Gap. Rather than beginning this hike in mid-afternoon, we opted instead for a taxi ride to Stroudsburg, PA and a motel for the night.

The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we waited in front of the motel for a taxi we had pre-arranged to take us back to the trail. As we were waiting for it to arrive, I noticed a pick-up truck, with hiking gear in its bed, leaving the motel parking lot. It was too late to flag the driver down and ask for a ride, but it was not the last time that we would see the man behind the wheel. In fact, over the next few days and again two years later, Ponder was to become one of the most enigmatic hikers I would encounter on the AT. Douglas hailed from Michigan and had been hiking the trail for a few weeks every year for some time. He latched onto Alton and me during the first part of our hike that day and remained with us throughout much of the section.

Douglas was just a genuinely nice fellow. He seemed to prefer his real name over his trail name even though “Ponder,” in large white letters, appeared across the front of the navy cap he wore. It was one of those bulky baseball caps that looked like it had been purchased at a convenience store. Since Douglas would occasionally just stop and stare into the distance, and since he asked some quite thought provoking questions, it became apparent how he had gotten his AT trail name. Ponder also exhibited a tad of eccentricity which began with his buttoned-up cotton shirt. He shied away from shelters, preferring to pitch his one-man tent nearby.

So for this first day on the trail in New Jersey our duo had become a trio. Like most of our other hikes, this one had been carefully pre-planned to include a stay at the Mohican Outdoor Center at the conclusion of our first day on the trail. Even though it was a mere 10 plus miles to the lodge, we determined that a bunk and a bathroom were preferential to a few more miles and a tent. After all, we had already decided to hike 18 the next day to arrive just in time for supper at a steakhouse at Culver’s Gap. Ponder happily agreed with our plan and walked on with us for the next four days.

Since Douglas had driven from Michigan, he was actually shuttling his truck as he hiked. At Unionville, NY (where the trail briefly leaves the Garden State before returning), Ponder called a taxi to take him back to his truck at the Water Gap. A few days later, however, after Alton had left to return to the south for a family commitment, I ran into Ponder again. I had hiked solo from HWY 17 near Greenwood Lake, NY to the Fingerboard Shelter for the night. Walking toward the shelter just before dusk, I spied Ponder’s tent pitched behind the shelter. After calling his name, he quickly emerged, smile on his face, happy to again be reunited with his friend of a week.

The last time I saw Ponder that year was at the Bear Mountain Zoo. He again planned to move his truck up the trail, so we bid our goodbyes as I headed over the Hudson. He had carefully explained to Alton and me earlier in the hike what sections he had completed and how he planned to finish the trail in the next couple of years. What we didn’t know then was that his plans would change.

Two years later in the late spring of 2007, Alton and I found ourselves up in the Green Mountains, working on completing the Vermont section of the AT. After our fourth day of hiking, we ventured in to Manchester Center for a night at Sutton’s Place, an old home whose owner rents rooms to hikers. After settling in and enjoying my first shower in four days, I suggested to Alton that we walk back to the center of town for dinner. As we strolled down the sidewalk in front of the home, we both noticed a strikingly familiar gentleman walking toward us. He wore a cotton, buttoned shirt, with sleeves rolled up, and a billed cap. Hesitating at first, Alton asked, “Do you know a hiker named Ponder?” “I am Ponder,” Douglas replied. And almost immediately he recognized us as his two former hiking buddies from Georgia. A smile crossed his face as he agreed to accompany us to dinner.

We quickly learned of Ponder’s last two years on the trail, especially of the difficulty he had had in the Whites. He explained that he had already finished NH and Maine and that he was within a few days of completely finishing the AT in sections. It was good to reunite with Ponder. Alton and I both knew that he would again become our travelling companion as we journeyed through Vermont. He did, but I know we enjoyed his company, and likewise, I think he enjoyed ours.

The last night Ponder spent on the trail was at the Governor Clement Shelter. We all set up our tents and the shelter was filled as well. Douglas seemed a little sad. I imagined that he was probably contemplating all the other nights he had camped, while on his quest to complete all of the Appalachian Trail. There were others in and around the shelter that night including Billy Romp and his two sons. None of those present, however, were thru-hikers. As the evening waned and the conversations continued, Ponder just turned in, not choosing to banter with the others.

The following day dawned wet and cold. We donned rain gear as we headed for US 4, where Ponder was to complete his AT section hike. For much of the morning we all hiked together, but then Douglas slowed, quite possibly intentionally, not wanting the adventure to come to an end. When I reached the intersection of the highway, I waited for what must have been at least an hour for Ponder to arrive. Camera in hand, I began snapping pictures as he approached. Hand outstretched, Ponder touched his last white blaze. As the rain and sweat glistened on his face, I seem to remember a countenance of both excitement and relief.

At that moment I had no plans to ever fully complete the AT, so I don’t know if I really appreciated Ponder’s accomplishment. Whether attempting a thru-hike of 5 or 6 months or section hiking over what could turn out to be 15 or 20 years, walking every step of the Appalachian Trail requires determination and perseverance. For Ponder, a goal had been achieved. For all of us who hope to reach Katahdin in 2013, there lies the task at hand….a 2180 mile walk to the last white blaze, a sign, and the end of the Appalachian Trail.

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Spirit Run

Leafy Trail in the Park

Leafy Trail in the Park

When I coached high school cross-country, I almost always provided the young ladies and young men on my teams with pre-planned daily workouts which I expected them to execute. On rare occasions, however, we would do what I called spirit runs. I use the pronoun “we” because in my 30’s and early 40’s, I did all the workouts with the team. So it was both the members of my teams as well as I who looked forward to these special days. We all embraced the idea of leaving campus for a run on the roads, or trails, or simply through the woods around the school, wherever the spirit led us. A leader would be selected to navigate for a while until another leader emerged from the pack. There were really no specific rules for these runs. We just ran.

These days I usually begin my runs from home, weaving through neighborhood streets to a picturesque park with roads and trails and, yes, even woods through which to roam. Like with my cross-country teams, I know which route I plan to take and how far I’m going to run, before the workout begins. Today was different. As I ran toward the park, I decided that when I arrived there, I would resurrect the days of yore and embark on a spirit run. For about an hour, I ran in parts of the park that I had not traversed in years. I strode down rutted gravelly roads, over dirt embankments, and through unmarked trails, all the time hearing the crackling leaves beneath my feet. And I felt moved by the spirit within me.

At one point as I headed up a short incline, I noticed a solitary lady enjoying her lunch at a cement picnic table under a pavilion. I wondered what items might have been stored in the red, canvas container. Had I been hiking the Appalachian Trail, rather than running through a public park, I might have stopped, engaged her in conversation, and perhaps been offered a morsel from her bag or a cold drink. But on this day the spirit moved me to run, and I complied.

Toward the back of the park a prison crew took a break for lunch. One tall, lanky, very young looking inmate stood by the lake, tossing bread crumbs toward a gaggle of geese that flapped their wings in appreciation. I wondered if he might have been thinking of another time when perhaps he had fed geese or ducks as a child. Perhaps he had stood at this same lake with the innocence of a five year old, smiling as the ducks quacked in his direction. Yet now he stood amidst the beauty of nature, clad in attire which let all around him know that, as his clothing stated, he was a state prisoner.

Around the next bend in the trail, two silver haired ladies approached. They had both tied knit sweaters around their waists, baring their arms on the unseasonably warm early December afternoon. Just before we met, one warned, “Watch out for that root there.” I looked down at the gnarly growth protruding from the base of the oak. There are roots aplenty on the Appalachian Trail. Just as I stepped to my left to avoid this one on today’s run, I’ll need to hike the AT with a watchful eye, always anticipating a potential fall up around the next bend.

When I begin my attempt of a thru hike next March, there may be times that I just want to let the spirit move me. I realize that the white blazes are there to guide me along my way. But I may take a detour now and then. Sure, I plan to pass all the blazes as I walk, but an opportunity may also present itself to meander down to a rushing stream or to a cascading waterfall, hidden away in the woods.

In a section of “Childe Harold’s Pilgrimage,” Byron states, “There is pleasure in the pathless wood.” Despite having directions to follow in life, or blazes to follow on the trail, at times I believe we all want to just set out on our own. We so often move in a rhythm that has been pre-determined for us. We stay in line; we obey the rules; we follow the blazes. At other junctures of our lives, however, we may just want to let the spirit move us. As I ran today the spirit moved me. Most days when I finish a run, I know exactly how many miles I’ve covered. Today I merely estimated. Does it really matter? When we walk or run or hike, isn’t it really the beauty of nature that should take precedence over all other incidentals?

When I leave from Springer I will constantly be in search of the next white blaze. Collectively these vertical, rectangular marks will lead me to Maine. Still, I hope if I’m so inclined, that I’ll take a few minutes now and then to amble into the pathless woods where the spirit leads me. I realize that it can be dangerous to wander too far from the marked trail; therefore, I’ll eventually pause and let the spirit lead me back. After all, what could be nicer than a spirit filled day along the Appalachian Trail.

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Above Tree Line

In the Whites

In the Whites

As is evidenced by the accompanying picture to this entry, I really did know absolutely nothing about backpacking on that first hike back in 2001. That day had begun with promise as the six of us headed north on the fairly easy Lincoln Woods trail. The old railroad bed afforded a flat and wide traverse for the first three miles of the day. In the coolness of the early morning, we even strolled down a side trail of about half a mile to a scenic waterfall. It was only after we reached the Pemigewasset Wilderness Trail and the climb began that our lack of hiking expertise became obvious.

Alton and I quickly hiked ahead of the others, and then I hiked on ahead of Alton. After a while, however, I decided to stop and allow my buddies to catch up. When they finally arrived I was checking my pulse, something I often did when running intervals on the track. In fact, this hike was starting to feel more and more like a hard track workout rather than a relaxing walk. Noticing that I was trying to determine whether or not my heart rate had exceeded its limits, the others followed suit. There we stood, six would-be backpackers, left hands on right wrists, eyes clued to watches, wondering what our max heart rates should be.

As the hours sped by, Alton and I again hiked ahead of Reg, Fitts, Doc, and Lindsey. When I reached what appeared to be a dead end to the trail, I shouted over my shoulder, “There’s no more trail.” When Alton caught up, he looked to his right and upwards to explain, “I think the trail is up there.” So after examining our situation, we quickly realized that we were definitely going to have to do some real “climbing” to continue the hike. What we didn’t realize at the moment, however, was what a spectacular view we would have when we experienced our first taste of “above tree line” hiking.

Again, this picture is of me at that moment. Notice the attire of the “knows nothing” backpacker. Cotton Dockers slacks, 100% long sleeve cotton shirt, boots that were made for some task other than hiking, and not pictured cotton socks inside those boots. Also visible is a sheathed knife on a heavy leather belt, an army surplus one compartment backpack, with the aforementioned (prep. entry one) four man tent on top. And finally, there’s the hiking stick that I had picked up a few miles back. I’d never even heard of hiking poles. So here we were in the White Mountains of New Hampshire and about as ill-prepared as a hiker can be.

So as I stated in my last prep. entry, I fully expect to begin this hike with more knowledge than the first, yet with much still to be learned. There is no doubt in my mind that I won’t know all that I need to know to complete a thru hike. At least the gear that I’ll be using this time will meet my needs and provide me with the best opportunity to be successful. After all, we do learn from experience. And experience can go a long way to completing a thru-hike of the Appalachian Trail.

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Learning on the Move

On the Way to Maine

On the Way to Maine

In Oscar Wilde’s 19th century comedy The Importance of Being Earnest, Lady Bracknell asks John Worthing whether he knows everything or nothing. She poses this question when she is interviewing him regarding his marriage proposal to her daughter, Gwendolyn. Mr. Worthing’s reply is, “I know nothing, Lady Bracknell.” When it comes to an Appalachian Trail thru hike, I might cite the same answer. As I prepare for my AT venture, I sometimes feel as if I know nothing. Sure, I’ve hiked over 1000 miles of the trail in sections; however, section hiking is only a mere microcosm of a thru hike.

From the first day of a section hike, the backpacker, whether seasoned or a rookie, knows that his hike is going to end in a few days or at the most two or three weeks. Knowing this, he may already be in the “countdown to completion” frame of mind from the outset. No matter what circumstances he faces, there are at all times only a few days remaining. Plus with a section hike, there is also the opportunity to “cut it short” if conditions aren’t favorable. Section hikers often take several years to complete the trail.

The thru hiker, on the other hand, knows from the beginning that if his hike is going to be successful, he will be on the trail for five or six months. Even the faster hikers face over four months of continuous hiking. Sure, days become weeks, and weeks eventually become months, but it takes a lot of days of hiking to reach a point where an end is in sight. The monotony of the trail at times can be overwhelming, especially when four or more consecutive nights are spent in the woods. This is why I feel like a stay at a hostel or a motel is mandatory at least every four or five days. With some creative maneuvering, this is possible.

So as I continue to prepare for my attempt at a 2013 thru hike, I’ll keep remembering that, like John Worthing, I definitely come closer to knowing nothing than I do to knowing everything. In reality, I do of course know some things. What I do know I hope will help me in overcoming what I don’t. I also hope that my ignorance of certain aspects of a thru hike may be beneficial as I seek to discover and learn from my shortcomings. Therefore, in the next few weeks, I will continue to research gear in order to make practical and intelligent choices for a thru hike. I’ll also read all that I can from former thru hikers in an effort to learn and benefit from what knowledge they have to share.

When I set out from Springer next spring, I may still not know everything, but as the days and weeks go by, I know that I’ll learn from those who accompany me on our journey north. I’ll try to keep an open mind and a willingness to accept suggestions and benefit from occasional criticism. After all, it is more probable that the hiker who knows nothing, but is willing to learn as he hikes, will have a greater chance of success than the hiker who departs from Springer thinking he knows everything there is to know about a thru hike. If you see me on the trail and have a suggestion, please let me hear it. I fully expect to rely on my fellow pilgrims to make it all the way to Katahdin and the end of the Appalachian Trail.

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