Monthly Archives: April 2013

Seventeen years ago today, my dad died, exactly eleven weeks after suffering a massive stroke. My mother and I were at Northside Hospital in Atlanta with him. When his condition had become grave, I called my brother. Don and I consoled each other at a difficult time. So today I thought of my dad and my brother often as I hiked alone for all of the day. Remembering special times a father had shared with his two sons seemed appropriate while walking through a majestic forest with vistas as far as the eye could see.

After a home cooked egg and sausage casserole with toast, juice, and coffee, Bennett and Lynda drove me back to the trail at Newfound Gap. Bennett even walked a couple hundred yards up the trail with me before shaking my hand and wishing me well. I felt truly blessed to have been able to spend time with these good Christian friends. It’s definitely the folks who offer their kindness and hospitality that keep the weary hikers moving along.

As I walked away from my friend I immediately noticed the gentle climb out of the gap. Time passed quickly. When I reached the ridge line I was treated to the best views that the hike has afforded thus far. At about the 3 mile mark I filled my small water bottle from Ice Water Springs. The water was the coldest I’ve tasted on the trail. Shortly thereafter I arrived at a 0.1 mile trail to Charlie’s Bunion. I walked out by myself to admire the views and take photos. Them I retraced my steps back to the AT.

So for the entire day I hiked without passing anyone, nor was I passed by any other hikers. I did meet three trios of southbound section hikers. One group was from Cincinnati. They have been making annual visits to the Smokies for 14 years, one said. Another group was from the local area. A sweet lady in the group said she recently lost a good friend to ALS, when I told them about my hike in memory of Don.

As the day wore on I ate and drank often, stopping twice to enjoy the turkey sandwich I had made at the Massey’s this morning. I also took numerous short breaks just to enjoy the views. Late in the afternoon I had to again deal with ice on the trail, although the trail was not as treacherous as yesterday. There I was hiking in short sleeves and shorts, with temperatures in the high 70’s, walking through ice and snow. Many times, however, I was able to walk around the more difficult stretches. Fortunately, I was able to stay vertical all day.

When I finally reached the Tri-Corner Knob shelter, there was only one space remaining. Already there were Piddling Around, Gumby, Riley, Ryan, Breeze (from Lagrange, GA), Windy, Say What, and a group of eight teenage section hikers from Ypsilanti, Michigan. They are part of a hiking club at their high school. Erica, a teacher at their school, and Julian, a former student , are chaperones. And least I forget, my buddies Grinch and Kermit arrived just before dusk.

As I look around at the crowded shelter, I am glad it’s my last night in the Smokies, despite the awesome views and the moderate to easy terrain. If all goes according to plans, I’ll hike to Davenport Gap, the northern boundary of the Great Smokey Mountain National Park, tomorrow. Then I hope to be in Hot Springs by late Saturday or Sunday, if I can do some big miles on Friday. Well, the crackling of the campfire beckons, so I’m about to join the other sojourners for some hiker chat before hunkering into my sleeping bag for another night on the Appalachian Trail.

When I heard Piddling Around piddling around at daybreak, I felt it OK to begin packing up even though most of my shelter mates were still asleep. I quickly readied myself for a short 10.8 mile day to Newfound Gap where church friends Bennett and Lynda Massey would be waiting to treat me to a night in a luxurious condo in Sevierville, TN. The thoughts of a hot shower and “real” food inspired me to get on up the trail quickly.

The trail from Double Springs shelter began with a walk through a canopy of evergreen trees. The scent reminded me of Christmas while the scene brought back recollections of the forest in “The Wizard of Oz” where the scarecrow keeps repeating, “lions and tigers and bears, oh my.” I knew I didn’t have to worry about any lions or tigers……I’m still waiting to see my first bear on this trip. I had my camera handy all day, just in case.

Within a mile Piddling Around caught up with me, so we hiked together for a large part of the day. I also hiked for a while in the afternoon with Cabo, a hiker about my age that I had met for the first time last night at the shelter. We took turns leading over the icy slush which still did not make negotiating the trail any easier. I fell three times on the ice today. That ups my total of falls now to five. And in addition to the falls, I also literally skied down one section for about ten yards before coming to a stop still standing. How? I don’t know. I suppose there’s no harm in ski blazing. If not for my trekking poles, I’m not sure I would have ever made it down from Clingman’s Dome. Since the observation tower was fogged in when we passed, we chose not to climb the half mile trail to the tallest point in TN. After all, my top elevation today was over 6500 feet.

After I finally reached an elevation where the trail wasn’t quite so icy, I made good time hiking on to Newfound Gap. As has been the custom every day for about the last week, at some time during the day Grinch and Kermit pass me. So with about two miles remaining in today’s hike they zipped by. I actually hiked with them for a few minutes before they pulled away. I’m looking forward to seeing more of the two young men up the trail.

With about 300 yards until reaching Newfound Gap, I looked up rounding a bend and Bennett and Lynda were walking toward me. They were the first familiar faces I had seen since starting the hike over two weeks ago. When we got to their truck in the parking lot, they had a cold soda ready and even stopped for me to get a burger on the way to the condo in Sevierville, TN. By far, these are the beat accommodations I’ve had thus far. Now they are about to take me out for dinner, so I’m hoping all this town food will lead to a strong day tomorrow when I continue the Smokies on the Appalachian Trail.

Today was one filled with many ups and downs……in more ways than one. While eating my two blueberry pop tarts for breakfast, I couldn’t help thinking of an old saying by one of my kinfolks, “if I had any ham, I’d have some ham and eggs, if I had any eggs.” Needless to say, a trail breakfast never stacks up to a town one. And as a result of poor nutrition from the onset, I struggled for much of the day.

A climb over Rocky Top awaited me shortly after today’s hike began. The views at the top were among the most spectacular I’ve experienced up to this point. Looking back toward the west, Fontana Dam was visible in the distance. I only paused for a minute, however, due to the high winds. So after a couple of pics, I hiked on. For the entire day, I hiked solo.

Throughout the morning my energy level quickly dissipated. Within the first two hours I was passed by Rocket, Whiskers, Postman, and Puffy, who had all stayed at the shelter previous to mine last night. A little later Grinch and Kermit also sailed by. By the time I reached the Derrick Knob shelter, I was definitely struggling. I took a break to eat and try to rehydrate. Apparently, however, the food was not enough. About a mile after hiking on up the trail, I had to stop for another rest. While sitting on a log, drinking water and eating peanut butter, Grinch and Kermit stopped to check on me. Grinch gave me some jellybeans and both hikers refused to move on until I assured them I was OK. I’ve hiked in the vicinity of these two young men from Marietta, GA for over a week. They are a good representation of how folks on the trail look out for each other. Before hiking on they encouraged me to make it to the shelter where they were staying.

Well, after the break I began to feel much better. I just have to keep drinking all day, especially when it gets warm like it did today. As I continued up the trail, the uphills were relentless. None were that long; they just never seemed to cease. And every uphill was followed by a downhill which led to another uphill. I walked on flat terrain very little of today’s hike. Still, the often panoramic views more than made up for my difficulties.

By the time I reached the Siler Bald shelter, I was feeling much better. After another short break I hiked on to Double Springs shelter where I met up with Rocket, Whiskers, Grinch, Kermit, and several hikers who I had not seen before. The campfire is going and everyone is huddled around as sundown approaches. After a difficult 13.5 mile day (due to how I felt, not to the trail conditions), I have a shorter hike tomorrow into Newfound Gap. I’m definitely looking forward to a town meal again.

The Appalachian Trail presents all hikers with a variety of challenges daily. As I hiked slowly at times today, I could imagine my brother offering encouragement with every step. I made it through some difficulty today, but tomorrow quite probably will provide another day filled with great vistas, fellowship, and opportunity, as most do on the Appalachian Trail.

What a day for a hike! Blessed with a beautiful sunny Sunday, I covered 17.9 miles for my longest day so far. But before I comment on the particulars of today, I want to add some info regarding last night. My evening at the Hike Inn was truly memorable.

Nancy, Jeff’s wife, drove Rocket, Whiskers, Piddling Around, and me to Robbinsville for a meal and re-supply for the Smokies. I shared a table at a Mexican restaurant with Piddling Around, a retired postal worker from near Wadley, AL. When I was about finished with my meal I experienced a wonderful surprise. Into the restaurant walked Prayerwalker and her husband Nick. Prayerwalker, a member of the trail journals community, and I have been corresponding since late last year. We had discussed where we might meet on the trail, but at a eating establishment outside Stecoah Gap was never a consideration. I think the excitement over finally meeting was mutual.

After arriving back at the Inn, I was finally able to watch a Braves game on TV. When the Braves rallied for the walk off win, I texted Brent and Sam to share in the victory. On so many occasions when the Braves won with ninth inning heroics, Don and I would replay the last inning over the phone. I even was able to watch some of the Final Four. It was a special ending to the day.

Today at 7:30 Nancy drove Rocket, Whiskers, and me back to the dam. They were starting at the visitors center; however, since I had ended my hike yesterday at the marina, I had a little over a mile to cover to get to the dam. When I did got there, Piddling Around had just arrived, so we hiked together over the Fontana Dam and into the Great Smokey Mountain National Park, the most visited park in the US and the one with the greatest black near population. We hiked together for a mile or so, but then I pulled ahead.

Once again, my legs felt fresh all day. Even though the climb up to the ridge ascended over 3000 feet, ample switchbacks afforded a comfortable ascent. I stopped to rest briefly twice, but waited until I found a comfortable tree to sit on to have my lunch. While I was enjoying a Subway melt that I has brought from Robbinsville, I realized that I had a cell signal, so I called Linda. Then I hiked on strongly for the remainder of the afternoon.

Not until after lunch did I see any other hikers. Johnny, a southbound section hiker from Chattanooga, stopped for a brief chat. Shortly thereafter I met a ridge runner, Carl or Greybeard, who gave me some information on available spots in shelters. While we were talking, I noticed two trail maintainers headed toward me. One said, “hey, it’s Don’s Brother.” It was Hopeful that I had met my first day on the trail. His fellow worker was Amy. You just never know who you’re going to meet on the trail.

For the remainder of the afternoon I saw no one else until I reached Mollie’s Ridge shelter. Walker T was taking a break for lunch. I retrieved some water from a spring behind the shelter before moving on up the trail. When I arrived at the Russell Field shelter, Whiskers and Rocket were there and going to stay the night. I rested for a bit, but then decided to hike on. Kind of like Forrest Gump, I just felt like hiking. A re-broadcast of The Prairie Home Companion escorted me to the next shelter where I arrived before 5:00. Garrison Keillor was at the Town Hall on W43rd St in Manhattan.

When I arrived at the Spence Field shelter, Zeus already had a fire blazing. Also there were two other hikers I had not met, Double Dare and Spicoli. Also here tonight are Grinch, Kermit, Head Bones, Molar Man, and Piddling Around.

Well, it’s been another remarkable day on the trail. I did big miles, met some more new hikers, and have a good spot in the shelter tonight. Tomorrow I have two options. I’ll probably choose the shorter one. So after the first day in the Smokies, all remains well on the Appalachian Trail.

After experiencing my worst day on the trail thus far yesterday, today was among my best. It’s amazing what eight hours of uninterrupted sleep with do for a weary hiker. When I awoke to my alarm at 7:00, Tie Dye and Jolly were already awake. Captain Dan, who had chosen to sleep on the screened in porch of the cabin, was soon stirring as well. So I prepared my pack and walked with the others up to Phil and Donna’s home for breakfast. After another exceptional hiker meal of eggs, bacon, biscuits with honey, and juice, Phil drove me back to Stecoah Gap.

Jolly, Tie Dye, and Captain Dan chose to take a zero day and remain at the cabin. I’ll miss my British friend that I’ve hiked with off and on since Franklin; however, perhaps I’ll see all of them again up the trail.

I began my hiking day on a positive note, wearing a light daypack with only food , water, and a couple of incidentals inside. The beginning of today’s hike consisted of a gentle path of switchbacks leading up the mountain out of Stecoah Gap. Then after about two miles I was greeted with a steep climb without the switchbacks. Fortunately it was the only time all day that I would consider the hike strenuous. On the climb I passed two young hikers, Napalm, who thru hiked last year and his cousin, John Wayne. Napalm is just doing the first two weeks with “the Duke.”

Taking advantage of the slack pack opportunity, I hiked faster today than at anytime in the past, covering the 13.9 miles in right at 5 and 1/2 hours with several breaks. I spoke briefly with Camel, who is hiking with his son, and Floater, from White Plains, NY, who is hiking with his daughter, who is taking a semester off from college. I also talked with thru hiker Wild Willy and section hiker Walker T at Cable Gap shelter, just after being treated to some trail magic at Yellow Creek Mountain Rd. Triton, who hiked the trail in 2011, was grilling up some burgers. The “magic” could not have occurred at a more opportune time since I arrived at the road just past noon, and I was only carrying snacks in my small pack. Some Boy Scouts with their leaders from High Point, NC were also there.

In the early afternoon, while taking a break, I chatted with section hiking sisters Hiker Nutt and Nutty Buddy from Dalton, GA. When they asked the reason for my thru hike, I again was given the opportunity to talk about my brother. Both ladies seemed sincerely moved.

All afternoon I hiked at a fast pace, only pausing to drink water a few times. I did very briefly chat with Mud Puddle and Slider, a middle-aged couple from Maine. I continue to meet many hikers who began their hikes a week or longer before I did. After the brief break I charged down the last three miles of the mountain arriving at Fontana before 2:30. My timing could not have been better. Jeff, of the Hike Inn where I had a reservation, had just arrived to pick up three other hikers. Two were Rocket and. Whiskers. So at least there are two other hikers here that I’ve previously met. As Jeff drove to the inn he congratulated us for making it this far, saying that over one-third of would-be thru hikers have dropped out by now. Jeff states that he has been extremely busy over the past few days shuttling those who have chosen to end their hikes to airports.

I’m at the inn now, showered and having my laundry done by Jeff’s wife. In a few minutes Jeff will take us all in to Robbinsville for a meal and re-supply shopping. Then when I return to my room, I hope to get to watch the Braves for the first time this season.

Having been on the trail for two weeks now, I just want to say how much I appreciate all of you who are reading my posts. Whether family, old friends, new friends, or folks I’ve never met, I continue to be humbled by your interest in my adventure and your genuine compassion for my brother Don. If you’re reading this on trailjournals, I’m posting more pictures at my website, http://www.donsbrother.com because they are easier to upload there. Tomorrow the Smokies await. The 5 day weather forecast is perfect. I may not be able to post the next two days, but if I can’t, expect an update on Tuesday from Newfound Gap. I’m focused and all is good, because Don loved the woods, and I think he would be enjoying sharing my journey on the Appalachian Trail.

It’s 5:16 AM. I’ve been tossing in my bunk all evening, trying to get some sleep in a room where the temperature has to be hovering in the high 80’s. I’m lying on the outside of my sleeping bag, unable to tolerate the added heat within, yet needing to keep the bag under me due to the absence of bed linens in the facility. I’ve mulled over the idea of going ahead and packing up and sitting outside the River’s End restaurant on a bench until they open at 8:00. I’ll try to persevere for a little longer since at least one of my bunk mates appears to be asleep.

Finally, at 6:45 the alarm sounded. I quickly packed up and walked down to the NOC outfitters. Even though it did not open until 8:00, a nice lady let me come in early to use the ATM. I then sauntered over to the restaurant to wait for it to open. When it did I shared a table with Jolly and enjoyed a large southern breakfast of eggs, sausage, grits, and coffee. After filling my water bottles and purchasing 5 candy bars, I set out from the NOC for the long climb up with Jolly. Little did I know at 9:30 this morning how difficult today’s 13.4 mile hike would be.

For 8 miles, the trail elevates from 1746 feet at the NOC to 5062 feet on Cheowah Bald. It was indeed a challenging morning. According to Captain Dan, “even the downhills were up.” I trudged along through thickets still laden with ice at the higher elevations. When the sun appeared around noon, we were periodically pummeled by the falling ice. At one point it almost seemed as if it were raining. At least the mud from the previous day was minimal.

For most of the day Jolly, my UK friend, and I hiked together. At the highest elevation of the day on Cheowah Bald, we took a break to enjoy the views. While resting, Gumby, Riley, and Ryan showed up. Gumby and Ryan are both veterans. Ryan served a tour in Afghanistan.
They were still lounging without shirts as Jolly and I headed up the trail.

As the afternoon continued, my energy level diminished. Jolly hiked on ahead as I struggled. As the temperature increased I shed a layer of clothes, hoping my pace would increase. It didn’t. At times I stopped on the uphill sections to just lean on my poles. Several thru hikers passed me as the afternoon wore on. Grinch and Kermit, the two young men from Marietta, GA, stopped to briefly chat and encourage me to keep hiking to today’s destination. Postman also hiked past, saying he wanted to get to the next shelter ahead of his hiking buddies. His inspiration is a motel room tomorrow for the Final Four. I also met two southbound thru hikers. One, Biggie Small, said he started in August and has taken 45 zero days. He also is hiking in memory of a relative who died of ALS, so we wished each other well as we headed up the trail in opposite directions.

When I got to Locust Cove Gap I saw Blissful resting by a tree. She planned to camp there. So I dropped my pack to visit for a few minutes. She asked about ALS, so I told her a little more about Don. When I started to hike on, she also offered encouragement by saying there’s only one more climb and then it’s all downhill. She only missed her assessment of the climbs by five. Due to my fatigue it was also difficult to hike over numerous large rocks on the descent to Stecoah Gap.

When I reached the gap, Grinch and Kermit were waiting at the picnic tables for a shuttle into Robbinsville. After only a few minutes more, my shuttle, Phil Capper, arrived to take me and two others to his cabins in the woods. I’m sharing a cabin tonight with Jolly, Captain Dan, and Tie Dye. Hopefully, conditions for a good night’s sleep will have improved over the previous evening. Whiskers and Rocket are also here in another cabin. We were all invited into Phil and his wife Donna’s home for a meal tonight.

Today was probably my most tiring of the 13 days I’ve hiked thus far. When I arrived at the cabins I was spent. However, after a hot shower, a hearty meal, two ibuprofen, and some good fellowship with hiking friends, I feel much better. So again, I expect to get a good night’s sleep so that tomorrow I can complete the 13.9 mile section to Fontana Dam. The Smokies await on Sunday as I make my way northward on the Appalachian Trail.

Today turned out to be the most challenging thus far, mainly due to a combination of the terrain and weather. After a breakfast of an egg, sausage and cheese quiche, bagel, and coffee, Maggie drove Jolly and me back to the trail at Burningtown Gap. As we departed the truck, a frigid, freezing rain greeted us. Needing to get started quickly to avoid freezing in the road, we hoisted our packs, put on gloves, and headed up the trail. Within a short while, I had pulled away from my Yorkshire friend, hiking briskly to try to warm up my core temperature.

Out of the gap the trail ascended gradually for the initial two miles before descending down to Tellico Gap. Icicles clung to the rhododendron around every turn, often dangling at face level. On more than one occasion I was slapped in the nose by a weighted down protruding limb. Visions of Robert Frost’s “Birches” came to mind as I strained to hear the icy clinking. Unable to keep my head and eyes anywhere but the ground, for fear of falling on the slippery black mud, I was pummeled by the ice laden branches often throughout the morning.

When I passed Cold Spring shelter during the first hour, four hikers were still hunkered in their sleeping bags, not wanting to face the chilling day. Stopped for a break was Slim Jim, a young man with whom I’ve quickly established a rapport. We hike at about the same pace, so for the remainder of the day we trudged through the relentless mud together. We also hiked in the footfalls of Whiskers and Rocket for several miles. At one point Rocket asked about Don, so I shared his story briefly with the couple from Cambridge. It brought back the memory of when Don and I took Brent and Sam to watch the Braves play the Red Sox at Fenway, when they were eleven.

Taking only one break to drop my pack, simply because it was too cold, we made excellent time considering the conditions, arriving at the NOC (Nantahala Outdoor Center) at 2:45. I had covered the 12.9 miles in just over 5 and 1/2 hours. With the last 4 miles being a tough descent from 4000 feet to 1746, I was very pleased with the effort despite taking my second fall. Really, I’m only calling it a half fall since I was able to catch myself on a blown down tree before hitting the muddy trail.

After arriving at the NOC, I quickly checked into the bunkhouse, showered, and put on clean, dry clothes. By far, it was the best feeling of the entire day. Then I walked to the River’s End restaurant for a meal. I dined with Slim Jim. Seated at the next table were four hikers from the army veterans who are “walking off the war.” One member of the group was Brown Squirrel, a member of the trail journals community whose posts I have been reading for the past few months. I got my second hug of the hike from her.

After a lengthy meal of an onion ring platter appetizer, half pound burger, tossed salad, and sweet tea, Slim and I visited for a good while before leaving the establishment. Several other hikers were also enjoying town food, including Sky, Grinch, Kermit, Whiskers, Rocket, and Tie Dye. When Slim and I walked over to the outfitters, we ran into Jolly who had hiked in a little while after us. I got some change and then headed to the laundry.

I selected one of the vintage 1985 washing machines from the 4 available and loaded it with all my muddy gear including my Brooks Cascadias trail runners, after I had cleaned most of the mud off outside with paper towels. While the clothes were drying I walked across the street to get a cup of coffee which I enjoyed in the laundromat. Slim also dropped by to chat about our upcoming hiking days.

Eventually I made my way back to the bunkhouse which I’m sharing with five lads whose collective age is probably not much over 100. Among them is Walmart with whom I shared a cabin back at Neel Gap over a week ago. That’s what makes the trail so interesting. You never know when someone is going to appear that you’ve seen somewhere along the way. The others are Bitter Goat from Toronto, Blue, Gumby, and Riley. So the characters just keep appearing, as I continue my pursuit of a thru hike on the Appalachian Trail.

At 8:30 Bill Van Horn (Day-glow) drove up in front of the Microtel in Franklin to shuttle Jolly, Highlighter, and me back to the trail at Winding Stair Gap. Bill made one stop on the way, in order to organize a group who was going our to do trail maintenance. The group volunteers to work on the AT around the Franklin area every Wednesday.

When we arrived at Winding Stair Gap, there were three hikers awaiting a shuttle into Franklin. When one introduced himself as Bass, I knew this was going to be a great day. There wasn’t anything my brother Don enjoyed more than bass fishing. I briefly told Bass about Don before beginning the climb out of the gap. I quickly hiked ahead of Jolly and Highlighter, walking across a small bridge over a stream with rushing water cascading down the rocks.

For most of the morning the miles zipped by. I only saw one other thru hiker, Sanka from Columbus, Ohio. On Siler Bald, while taking a break, a shirtless Grimch amd his hiking buddy Kermit hiked past after briefly stopping to say hello. Both had also passed me just before Deep Gap on Saturday. On the descent from the bald, I met a group of about a half dozen day hikers who were headed up to the bald for the views. They were from various cities and belonged to an organization called “road scholars.”

Stopping for a break at 11:45, I checked my guide to realize I had covered in excess of 5 miles in a little over two hours. A few minutes later I came across a woman doing trail maintenance. Nancy Phillips is originally from Eufaula, Alabama, a city Don and I often traveled through with our parents, as children, to visit our grandparents in Ozark. Don also spent many hours in his bass boat on Lake Eufaula. Nancy walked up the trail with me to where her husband and other trail maintainers had taken a break for lunch.

As the day wore on, I encountered a plethora of thru hikers. Among them were Snowman and Riverdog, who are completing a southbound thru hike they began in August. Taking a break around Christmas, they had recently returned to the trail to finish their hike. I also met the father and son team of Cookie and Dash. Just before reaching Wayah tower, I ran into Chris from Birmingham (now Slim Jim) and Jonah, a hiker from Tallahassee, who just finished high school last year. There were many other day hikers at the tower as well. With 360 panoramic views, Wayah tower is a popular tourist destination in the area, which is accessible by car from a gravel forest road.

While I was eating a sandwich, Jolly, my new British friend, arrived at the tower. Asking how much farther I planned to hike today, I told him of my reservation at the Aquone hostel. When he called Maggie, the owner and a fellow Brit, she told him that there was one bunk left. So Jolly and I hiked together to Burningtown Gap to complete a 14.6 mile day. Shortly after calling the hostel to let them know we were at the gap. Maggie’s husband Steve arrived to drive us to the Aquone. For the approximately three mile drive down the mountain, I felt more like I was in a Manhattan taxi. At breakneck speeds, the former British Green Beret exhibited flawless driving skills as he navigated the narrow gravelly road. And as he drove, he and Jolly compared their UK pasts. Steve hails from Manchester. A United fan, he said his family is split between the two clubs who are perennial contenders in the Premier League.

After arriving at the hostel, Steve showed us around and told us that dinner was at 5:30. The building, which Steve completely constructed by himself, is unbelievably beautiful. He also made some of the furniture in the hostel as well.

Already there were Maddy (now Rocket) and Whiskers, Puffy, Bojangles, Walker, Captain Dan, Tie Dye, Postman and Oxy. Tie Dye, who currently lives in the Park City, Utah area with her husband, has read my journal. Puffy, a 26 year old former high cross country runner, had heard about my reason for hiking and sincerely offered his admiration for my pursuit.

After dinner we all returned to the common room for some hiker banter and viewing of the weather channel. Since most of us plan to hit the Smokies on Sunday, we are closely watching weather patterns for the next week. Even though cold rain is forecast for tomorrow, the next five days after appear to be great for hiking. When I noticed a scrabble game under the TV and asked if anyone wanted to play, Rocket, Whiskers, and Tie Dye gladly accepted the invitation. Once again I’ve found myself among the finest of company after a day of exhilarating hiking and spectacular views as I make my way northward on the Appalachian Trail,

It felt good to sleep in a bed last night; however, I still awoke somewhat early, a little after 7:00. Needing to get several tasks accomplished today, I made a list and set out about 8:30. The first stop was at Bojangles for breakfast. Even though the motel provided a light fare, I wanted something more substantial. I thought about the time last fall when Linda and I had dined at a Bojangles, while vacationing in the Western Carolina mountains.

After breakfast I walked to a nearby UPS to mail the old tent, sleeping pad, and a few miscellaneous items to my good buddy Scotty. I had planned to toss the tent; however, when I asked my friend if he wanted it, he said he did. Perhaps he can figure out a way to make it sleep worthy again. It served its purpose well for me over the past ten years of section hiking. Now it’s time for an upgrade in the tent category.

Next, I visited the Three Eagles Outfitters to invest in a new sleeping pad and look at their tents. Uncertain still of just what tent to buy, I decided to wait until I get to Natahala in two more days in order to do some more research. I did purchase a Big Agnes pad with 2.5 thickness and a 4.1 R value. I should expect more comfortable nights ahead in the shelters. In addition, I decided to buy a camp towel to replace the standard hand towel I was carrying. Camp towels are lighter and dry much more quickly.

When I finished at the outfitters, I stopped by a Kerr Drugs for some more necessary items. Among those were travel size sunscreen and deodorant. I also picked up some whole milk and Don’s favorite, Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups. Then I headed back to the motel where I visited in the lobby for a while with Jolly, Nimble, Highlighter, and Wrong Way. Jolly, originally from Northern England, now resides in Westchester County, NY. I also set up a shuttle for the return to the trail tomorrow morning.

For the remainder of the afternoon I’ve been returning and sending emails and text messages, researching tents, and resting. It has definitely been a relaxing day; however, I’ m already getting a little restless to resume the hike. I’m looking forward to watching some baseball tonight, but I’m even looking more forward to tomorrow and putting in the miles on the Appalachian Trail.

Today was opening day for Major League Baseball. It is my first opening day without my brother. One passion that we shared has always been baseball. We would have talked often over the past two months about the Atlanta Braves off season trades, and tonight we certainly would have exchanged phone calls during the Braves 7-5 win over the Phillies. I won’t watch a game all season without thinking about him.

After a fairly good night’s sleep in the shelter, I awoke to the sounds of others packing up to get an early start. It was town day. All hikers look forward for the opportunity to leave the rigors of the trail behind for a day with a respite back in civilization. Those at the shelter where I stayed last night were no exception. Blissful and the Raisin Bran Kid were the first two to depart, followed closely by Maddy and Whiskers. I lingered for a while enjoying conversation with Hammy, Storytime, and El Gato. Hammy gave me a hug after I told her about Don. Every time I’m asked about my trail name, my response draws sincere compassion from all.

I finally took off on today’s hike around 8:30. The initial terrain was very flat although still extremely muddy. I hiked quickly, passing El Gato on the climb out of Wallace Gap. Later I also passed Hammy and Storytime as well as Packrat, a young kid who had arrived at the shelter last night after everyone was asleep. Other than meeting a few southbound section hikers, I only saw one other thru hiker, Strider. Strider arrived on the trail at 336 pounds, determined to lose weight. He told me he had already lost 20 pounds and is determined to keep moving up the trail.

Around 11:00 I walked into Winding Stair Gap to meet Rob, the former owner of a hostel in Dalton, MA, who has recently located to the south. He had a cooler full of cold beverages in the back of his pickup to offer to all. Several other hikers were hanging out in the parking lot, either waiting for shuttles or preparing to head up the trail. As I was drinking my ice cold trail magic soft drink, a van pulled up to let out a hiker. I asked the driver of the van, Pam, if she was going back into Franklin. She said that she was and that she would gladly give me a ride. Actually, she is the girlfriend of another thru hiker, Stupid, who was there to see off his friend . Stupid planned another zero day in Franklin before resuming his hike. When Pam asked my trail name, she said that she had been reading my journal from its beginning. I greatly appreciated the lift that Pam and Stupid gave me to the Microtel in Franklin. I certainly hope I see Stupid again up the trail.

After checking in I spent the rest of the day doing town chores. I did my laundry and spent some time catching up on my writing. Tomorrow I’ve scheduled my first zero day for rest. Even though my legs feel great, I promised myself that I’d take a day off about every ten days to two weeks. It’s been a very good first 10 days. I’ve covered 109.8 miles and stayed vertical 9 out of 10 days. I’m looking forward to a day off tomorrow, but I’m also looking forward to Wednesday when I will resume my hike on the Appalachian Trail.