Author Archives: donsbrother4

Since I’m taking a day off from hiking, I thought I might also take a day off from writing. About ten seconds later, I decided otherwise. After 17 days of hiking, one streak ended. Today, however, marks 75 consecutive days of posting an account of the adventure. So as I write about a zero day, at least one streak lives on.

Sleeping much later than usual, I found myself eating breakfast at 9:30. Then I spent the remainder of the morning planning my next week’s hikes. Logistically, it’s more challenging to plan using roads as a basis than it is using shelters. Still I eventually choreographed something that appears feasible. With shuttles lined up for tomorrow and Friday, I feel a little more at ease, especially since rain is in the forecast. Hopefully tomorrow’s hike will be completed before the bad weather begins.

In the early afternoon I took the bus back over to Harper’s Ferry and the ATC headquarters. Fidget was signing in, and Runner-up also stopped by while I chatted with Peter Pan. Deciding that I wanted to begin my hike tomorrow at the end of High St., I walked the blue blazed trail back to the AT and went ahead and hiked the .6 mile stretch up to the bridge today. Along the way I walked down to Jefferson Rock. Most have seen the famous picture in a history book. Then I paused at the site of the ruins of the old Episcopal church and also took a pic of the adjacent newer structure.

When I reached the end of this section at High Street, I walked up the hill to look for a spot for a late lunch. Rock Steady suddenly appeared, so we found a tavern to share lunch and some hiker banter. After lunch we walked to the outfitter where I purchased some more aquamira, the water purification treatment that I’m using.
Realizing that it was almost time for the commuter bus, I quickly walked back to the pick-up location across from the ATC office. I made it just in time for the 4:45 shuttle.

After getting dropped off in front of Wal-Mart, I did a little shopping and them walked to a nearby “salon” to get my first professional haircut since the hike began. The hair stylist asked about my hike, so I shared a few details. Then I walked back to the motel. As I neared the building I smiled, for in the parking lot sat the white Volvo with the Ohio plates. Molar Man and Sweet Tooth (formerly Diane) had arrived. When I called the two they invited me to join them for dinner at an Italian place.
Molar Man has been hiking some big days, and is only about a half day behind me now. It was good catching up with the couple while we dined.

Overall, today has been relaxing, although for a while there I wondered why I wasn’t out hiking. Sometimes it’s harder to take a day of rest than it is to hike. My days of the week are also confused. It seemed like Saturday all day. Tomorrow, however, all will be back to the routine of the thru hiker. I’ll arise early, try to consume as many calories as I can tolerate at breakfast, and hit the trail early. The trail in Maryland only runs 41 miles, which I hope to hike over the next two days. Virginia seemed to last forever, but now each state should come and go with rapidity as the walk continues onward north on the Appalachian Trail.

When the day began I didn’t expect to be sitting in a bus on the side of HWY 340, waiting for a deputy sheriff to fill out an accident report. But I’m getting ahead of myself, so first I suppose I need to start with the morning. Actually, I wanted to add some material from last night before I even began the today. I had mentioned that other hikers would probably arrive at Bears Den, and one did. Not only did Ambassador show up, but he also played some on the guitar that he’s carrying on his pack. He doesn’t seem to mind the extra weight. In fact, he’s also packing about a three pound camera.

At 6:00 this morning my alarm and Runner-up’s sounded at almost the same time. Wanting to get an early start so that I could make Harper’s Ferry before the ATC office closed at 5:00, I immediately headed to the kitchen to cook my breakfast. In addition to four large pancakes, I scrambled a couple of eggs and made myself a cup of instant coffee. I also downed 20 ounces of water before leaving the hostel. Pacemaker and Runner-up were having breakfast when I departed. Ambassador was still asleep.

Less than a mile after leaving Bears Den, the trail crosses VA 7 at Snickers Gap. Apparently the speed limit is 80 on the busy thoroughfare leading into DC. It took several minutes before I could find a large enough gap in traffic to dash across. When I got to the other side I met Rock Steady who had stopped for a photo opt with a Snickers bar. Knowing that he would pass me quickly, which he did, I began the first climb of the day. Fortunately, the final four miles of the roller coaster came at the beginning of today’s hike rather than at the end.

Just past the 1000 mile mark a spectacular view awaited at Raven Rocks. When I got there Rock Steady was taking a break. We took each other’s picture, and I told the Californian about my brother and journal. Rock Steady said he has a good friend who was recently diagnosed with ALS. The personable engineer is only the second hiker that I have met in his 40’s. Having only a limited number of days to complete the trail, he hopes to finish in under three months. Since he didn’t start until April 14, he seems to be well on his way to achieving his goal. We would see each on breaks throughout the day.

The day passed smoothly. I stopped for lunch at one of the nicest shelters I have seen-the David Lesser Memorial Shelter. Rock Steady had also stopped for water. Flare, a southbound section hiker and veteran, was drying out some gear. The only other hikers I chatted with were father and son, C4 and Hotdog, from Connecticut and also sectioning south. I saw a few others hiking south, but just said hello, not wanting to break stride with a goal in mind.

After the end of the roller coaster the trail leveled out for much of the afternoon. Other than some flat rocky sections, with some of the rocks being of the pointed variety, the trail continued gentle until the final two miles when it abruptly dropped almost 1000 feet down to the Shenandoah River. After walking across the lengthy bridge, I crossed a street to where the trail continues to ascend until a blue blazed trail leading to the ATC headquarters appears. I walked up the side trail and strolled into the office about half an hour before closing. Peter Pan welcomed me as the 318th thru hiker to sign in this year. I had my picture taken and filled out the required paperwork to be official.

To my total surprise, Mr. Gigglefits and Paisley were in the hiker lounge along with Carpenter. They had hitched from Luray to get a bus to DC and then a train to NY for some music concert. When I asked how they got 70 miles behind me, Gigglefits said they had spent six days at trail days. Ah, the youth on the trail! As we waited together for a commuter bus to Charles Town, Daypack walked up. He had been at the first campsite with me in GA. I hadn’t seen him since early in NC.

So after I left the ATC on the bus with Mr. Gigglefits and Paisley, the almost perfect day began its decline. Shortly after getting on well-travelled 340, a small car with four teenagers inside, sideswiped the bus. For over an hour we waited for the law enforcement to arrive and for all the necessary forms to be completed. Passengers on the bus (there were only five of us) had to show ID and verify that we weren’t injured. The delay kept me from getting to a motel until after 6:00. The bus driver, however, was extremely nice to drive me right up to the registration office rather than letting me off at the designated area.

Even with the mishap, it’s been a very good day. I recovered nicely after yesterday’s fiasco. In nine hours I hiked 19.8 miles with one stretch late in the day where I did three miles in an hour. I met Rock Steady and got re-united with Mr. Gigglefits and Paisley. Tomorrow I’ve decided to take a day off after 17 consecutive days and 266 miles. After a day of rest I’ll cross into Maryland, the sixth state and second shortest next to West Virginia. I must admit that I got a little emotional thinking about my brother as I crossed the Shenandoah River and realized that I was at what many consider the (first) half way point. I could just see Don standing by the river, fishing rod in hand. There will be other rivers and ponds and lakes along the way. I know he’ll like them all as we start the second half of the adventure on the Appalachian Trail.

Today was ugly. It took me almost as long to hike 13.5 as it did to do 20 yesterday. I staggered, wobbled, and shuffled the last five, feeling totally depleted. If I had been in a road race, an official surely would have pulled me off the course. For 5 milers, be they running, walking, or hiking, today had to have been a PW (personal worst). So am I discouraged? Absolutely not. I’m back at Bears Den, have showered, and now I’m munching on some Pringles and sipping a Dr. Pepper. Life is good.

The day began with a ride from John back to Ashby Gap. Since he couldn’t drop me off exactly where I ended yesterday’s hike, I had to walk south for about a quarter of a mile and then retrace my steps north. I may not sleep in the woods that often, but I am determined not to miss any white blazes. When I did get headed up the trail north, I saw no other hikers for about the first three hours. Then I met some southbound sections hikers out for a few days. A few minutes later I caught Hickory and Jackrabbit, also section hikers from Arlington. Not having hiked with anyone all day, I actually slowed my pace to chat with them a little while.

It was after I moved on ahead of the duo that my day took a turn for the worse. I paused to photograph a sign on a tree “warning” hikers of the infamous roller coaster, a 13.5 section of trail with numerous “tightly packed ascents and descents.” Mumbling that the description could be for just about any section of trail, I think I jinxed myself regarding its difficulty. I hiked up and down, up and down, over large rocks, across streams, through the mud, until I felt like I really was on a roller coaster, as much emotionally as physically. It concerned me a little when I found myself singing “They’re coming to take me away, the men in their little white coats, to the funny farm, where life is beautiful all day long, they’re coming to take me away.” Believe me; it wasn’t funny.

To try and take my mind off the drudgery, I attempted to recognize some of the vegetation along the trail. Sorry, Mr. Stewart. Despite enjoying leaf identification in high school biology, I failed miserably today. Between swatting bugs and slipping on muddy stretches of trail, I just persevered. And at about my lowest moment I heard a rustling behind me. When I turned I came face to face with a beautiful whitetail deer. When I looked into his eyes, I thought of my brother. It was as if Don had made an appearance to tell me to “suck it up” and get today’s hike finished.

So I did my best to listen to my brother’s advice internally and work as hard as I could to get to Bears Den. When the sign came into view indicating the blue blazed .2 mile trail to the stone structure, I was again a happy hiker. Even though there was still no zip in the legs, I managed to get to the hostel and into a mood changing shower. The old hot shower after a hike does wonders. Now I just have to wait until 5:00, when the hostel officially opens, for my pizza and ice cream. For now I’m content to sit on this comfortable wooden bench and enjoy the refreshing breeze.

Shortly after I arrived, Pacemaker and Runner-up hiked in as well. I’ve now seen the young German couple for several consecutive days. Four southbound former high school buddies from Ohio were also taking a break outside the hostel. Without guides, they weren’t sure where they wanted to end their hike. I let them borrow my AT Guide and suggested Mike at Terrapin Station when they asked about a shuttle. Before the end of the day I suspect other hikers will also arrive for the night. Bears Den is one of those places that is hard to pass up.

As I reflect on my difficult day, I could probably attribute my lack of energy to a number of factors. Tomorrow I’ll definitely increase my calories at breakfast. I’ll also drink more water and electrolytes early in the day. And I hope to get a good night’s sleep. Because tomorrow I’m headed to Harper’s Ferry, the psychological half way point of the hike. I’m looking forward to visiting the Appalachian Trail Conservancy and getting back to a motel. At this time last year my brother was nearing the end of having the ability to speak. But today I heard him loud and clear as he encouraged me to keep on hiking and reach my goal of getting to Maine on the Appalachian Trail.

Under overcast skies, I set foot on the trail today at 7:40, still holding a half cup of McDonald’s coffee. Since the terrain was completely flat for the first mile, clutching both poles in one hand and the coffee in the other worked fine. When I did reach the first climb of the day, I heard talking from up the trail. As I got closer I realized Bison and Barking Spider were just up ahead. When I reached and passed the brother and sister, they fell in behind me for the next three miles. It definitely felt good to be able to share the hike and a conversation with the Texans. Their dad, Blister, had to leave the trail with a foot problem. He had rented a car and was picking them up for lunch at VA 638.

When the three of us reached he road, to my surprise Shrek was sitting under a tree taking a break. Not having seen the strong, young hiker in almost a month, I thought he would be half way through Pennsylvania by now. I offered him a share of my shuttle to Bears Den, but he declined. Trail magic also appeared in the form of cold Sprite and various types of chips. I took a soda and some Cheetos. Thanking Bison and Barking Spider for the opportunity to hike with them, I then headed up the next climb alone. Almost shoulder high weeds (or maybe they were some kind of flower I couldn’t identify) bordered the trail for almost a mile. My shoes and shorts were wet from the morning dew before I exited the protruding plants.

For the third day in a row I happened upon a couple of trail maintainers. Speedy (AT ’96) and his wife Katherine stopped their weed eating to chat for a minute. Just past the couple I began to hear the cicadas. Their deafening song even drowned out the traffic on I-66 that the trail passes under at Manassas Gap. Just past the gap I was asked about my hike by 70 year young Underdog, a retired gentleman who was getting ready to start a three day hike. Then I crossed a footbridge and began almost a 900 foot climb to the Manassas Gap Shelter where I took a lunch break.

With a little over half my day complete, I hiked steadily throughout the afternoon. With about five miles to go I was passed by Tugboat and Life-raft. For the remainder of the day I hiked just in front or just behind them as we each stopped for breaks. As I arrived at Ashby Gap to complete a 20.0 mile day the rain began. Fortunately, Mike Evans was already there to shuttle me to Bears Den Hostel. By the time we arrived it was flooding. I didn’t get wet hiking, but I sure did walking from Mike’s car to the door of Bears Den.

Already at he hostel was a troop of Boy Scouts from Ohio with two adult leaders. After the hostel officially opened for business at 5:00, I signed in and took the $30 hiker special-a bed, shower, laundry, a full pizza, soft drink, and a pint of Ben & Jerry’s ice cream. Also arriving were thru hikers Gator and Pilgrim. I can’t say enough good things about Bears Den. The rustic stone building is filled with AT memorabilia and history. This year’s caretakers, Dana, Johnny, and John, along with Dana’s dog Doug are all most hospitable. Visiting with the other hikers ended another satisfying day of adventure on my journey along the Appalachian Trail.

For the fifth consecutive day I hiked alone. And again I saw no thru hikers on the trail. At times it seems like I’m the only one headed north even though I know there are still many others. I’m just not finding myself around them. I did pass two northbound section hikers, Bloodhound from Raleigh and Poncho who lives in Puerto Rico. Poncho was finishing the complete trail in sections in Front Royal today. I asked him if he had champagne in his pack. He said he didn’t but that he was sure he could find some way to mark the occasion.

With another mundane trail and a very hot temperature, I found myself reflecting for much of the day. I’m glad to finally be out of the Shenandoah National Park. Early in the week its uniqueness with the waysides and Skyline Drive captured my attention. By today I had just about seen all that I wanted to see. Plus, the trail continued to consist of stretches of the same old gravelly rocks, leaves, and roots. Being able to hike at a quicker pace was welcomed; however, I miss the variation. In fact, as soon as I exited the park portion, a steep descent with large rocks awaited. Usually I would cringe at such a section. Today I actually enjoyed the change of terrain.

I thought a lot about what I’m doing as I walked today. When I began this quest (that seems like an appropriate word), I said that I loved to hike but that I only enjoyed camping a little. After about the first three weeks I altered my terminology to: I love to hike and can tolerate camping. Shortly thereafter I mentally moved to I really like hiking, but I hate camping. Now I seem to be in the: I kind of like hiking, but I detest camping. I fear that I may eventually get to: I’m tolerating the hiking. Please don’t misconstrue. I have no intention of quitting. I’m just trying to resurrect some more enthusiasm.
I am beginning to understand, however, why more hikers quit in Virginia than any other state except Georgia.

Those who really know me understand my competitive nature. So this hike has become more about “getting to the finish line.” I find myself more and more comparing the rigors of the trail to the challenge of finishing a marathon. As I approach the literal half way mark, which I should reach around next Sunday or Monday, I’m reminded of the half way point in a 26.2 mile race. For anyone who has run one, they know it’s not where one would think mathematically. It’s the 20 mile mark. It takes as much mental and physical effort to complete the final 6.2 as it does to run the first 20. So when I reach the half way point on the AT at 1092, I won’t really be half way. That will occur somewhere in Vermont or New Hampshire.

So back to my day, I did meet another trail maintainer from the Potomac Appalachian Club. John was doing some weed eating as I passed by. Numerous day hikers also appeared throughout the afternoon, many not even carrying water, which concerned me considering the heat. There was also a large number of bicyclists on Skyline every time I passed the drive. Other than the 90 degree heat, it was a pretty nice day.
When I reached US 522 at Front Royal, Possible, a 2012 thru hiker, and his wife Lisa had erected a tent and were handing out some trail magic. Even though Mike was already there, I went ahead and had a hotdog and lemonade. Pacemaker and Runner-up were taking a break as well.

Other hikers are at the hostel tonight including thru hiker Newton from Maine. A couple of section hikers from Australia and Bee Man, who lives in the West Indies, joined me on the trek with Mike into town. I shared a booth at Burger King with Bee Man. Experiencing a shin splint issue, he plans to take a zero tomorrow. After the meal I picked up a few groceries. Tugboat and Life-raft had come into Front Royal to re-supply but were going back to the trail tonight.

Now I’m sitting on the steps leading up to a deck at the back of the hostel. It’s been quiet since Mike’s neighbor finished mowing his lawn. There’s a breeze. Thunderstorms are forecast for tonight and tomorrow morning. Even though there’s a chance I may get wet, I’m looking forward to a night at the Bears Den Hostel, one of the best on the entire trail. I’m also getting ready to motivate myself for tomorrow’s 20 miler. After all, I’ll again get to spend all day among the trees and wildlife, and as I keep reminding myself, Don loved the woods.

As another month comes to an end, I celebrate my 70th day on the Appalachian Trail. In many ways it feels like 70 weeks. Sometimes I find myself trying to remember various aspects of my home. Strangely, the longer I’m away the more vague things become. I best be careful for fear of contracting that dreaded disease of all thru hikers…homesickness. It has forced some off the trail already. It always seems to be lurking around the next hard climb or within a casual conversation among other hikers.

Today was a day of firsts. I’ll get back to that later because they occurred near the end of the day. This morning the trail offered up several panoramic views between Skyland and the Pinnacle. Early in the day I came across a group of trail maintainers from the Potomac Appalachian Club. When a worker who identified himself as Sisu asked my trail name and I said Don’s Brother, he said he had been following my journal. Sisu also asked me to tell the others about Don. They all ceased their work as I briefly talked about my brother.

A little later I met a lovely couple from London. John and Ros said they were out for a walk, not a hike. Just a short while later I had my second Blissful sighting in the past week. Having first met the former thru hiker in Georgia, I knew that she had planned to do some work as a ridge runner this summer. On Monday I saw her just north of Waynesboro. Today I saw her again. I wouldn’t see another hiker until very late in the day.

When I reached Thornton’s Gap I walked down to the restroom area to fill my water bottles from an available fountain. Bison and Barking Spider were going through a re-supply box trying to decide what to keep and what to leave for other hikers. They had way too much to carry. As they rummaged through the box, I ate my ham sandwich and peanut butter cups. They were still sorting items when I wished them well and headed back to the trail. Since I feared that the heat would drain my energy, I promised myself that I would drink every 20 minutes.

So as I hiked through the afternoon I had the trail to myself until about two miles before Elkwallow Gap. Hiking at a brisk pace I suddenly came to an abrupt halt when I heard a distinct rattling sound. For the first time ever when hiking anywhere, I came face to face with about a five foot long rattlesnake. After snapping a couple of pictures, I then had to figure out how to continue up the trail. Not really knowing the proper protocol, I first tossed a rock in its direction. Nothing. So I tossed another which hit the snake. Still no movement. My next idea was to try to bushwhack around the snake. When he began to coil and rattle again, I nixed that idea. So there I was in a standoff with a rattlesnake. Fortunately he quickly decided to slither back into the underbrush. When he was at a safe distance, I gingerly walked past and then quickly picked up my pace.

The rattlesnake, however, was not the only “first” today. Within about a half mile of concluding my hike I heard a loud noise just off the trail. When I looked to my right, a large turkey was strutting back and forth, obviously irritated about my proximity to his spot. Realizing that trying to get close enough for a good picture was not a good idea, I moved on as he continued to display his distress. Oddly enough, this was almost the same place I had seen a mama bear and her two cubs when I section hiked the Shenandoah’s in 2006.

When I finally reached the Elkwallow Wayside, a little unnerved I must admit, I ran into the first thru hikers I had seen in the past two days. Pacemaker and Runner-up were resting at a picnic table. We chatted until Mike Evans, the owner of the Terrapin Station Front Royal Hostel, arrived for my shuttle. It was good to get re-acquainted with the Grateful Greenpeace Guy. He told me that only one other hiker, Pilgrim, was staying with him tonight. A thru hiker from California, Pilgrim also has a journal going on trailjournals.

After I had the opportunity to do some laundry for the first time since Buena Vista, Mike drove Pilgrim and me into Front Royal for a meal at a Mexican restaurant and a grocery store stop. He carries out this routine every day during hiker season. My routine is the hike. But as I look back on my day of “firsts,” I’m definitely hoping that there won’t be any seconds tomorrow, or any day for that matter, as the journey continues on the Appalachian Trail.

Walking through the woods this morning under an already blistering sun, I found myself singing a variation on an old Lovin’ Spoonful 60’s hit, “Hot now summer on the AT……..” To divert my attention from the heat, I catalogued all hikers that I had hiked with for any length of time. There was Slim Jim from Hiawassee to the NOC, Jolly from Franklin to the Smokies, Piddlin’ Around in the Smokies, Molar Man from north of Erwin to Iron Mountain, and Speck from Pearisburg to Jennings Creek. I also spent considerable time with Kermit and Grinch in the Smokies and Whiskers and Rocket from Deep Gap, NC to Damascus. Today I hiked alone.

Before heading back to the trail, Quicksilver and I walked down to a country store for some breakfast sandwiches and coffee. Then we sat around the gazebo with Peach, enjoying the early morning fellowship over breakfast. Bob, along with Shadow and Cookie (his cat), also visited. At around 7:30 Bob drove me back to the Lewis Mountain Campground where I had concluded my hike yesterday. I bid Bob and Shadow farewell as they drove away. Then I walked down a side trail for about fifty yards to the AT. Even though I had only been around Bob for less than twenty-four hours, I felt like I was saying goodbye to an old friend.

Like other recent days I saw no thru hikers at any time today. I met a few southbound sectioners and was passed by one shirtless northbound hiker who said he had just begun his hike today. Walking at a brisk pace, he disappeared rather quickly. Just wanting to get the miles done, I only stopped to chat once with a day hiker looking for Hawksbill Mountain. Having passed it within the last few minutes, I offered directions to the young lady who introduced herself as Susan from Atlanta.

Earlier in the day, around noon to be exact, I walked up a gravel road to Skyline Drive which led to the Big Meadows Wayside. Before going in for lunch I talked awhile with Paul with Bunions, a 2010 thru hiker who was working on another complete trail in sections. Most of the clientele, however, consisted of old men who resembled Morty Seinfeld with their white haired wives. A few biker types mingled around as well. The Virginia Ham and Swiss sandwich and salad were worth the extra mile of walking.

After lunch I returned to the trail by the same route. Even though I rested regularly, I still hiked more sluggishly in the afternoon. Drinking both water and electrolytes in large amounts, I hoped to prevent the depleted feeling I experienced yesterday. Views were more plentiful which in a small way offset the heat. At one time I heard thunder rumbling in the distance, but it never rained. By the time I reached Skyland I was ready for a room, a shower, and a meal. After a little negotiation I was able to get a hiker rate at the rustic resort, even though this is by far my most expensive bed. But there’s a restaurant a stone throws from my room, which also means a hearty breakfast in the morning.

After checking in I ventured down to the tap room for some supper. Also dining were Blister and his two adult children, Bison and Raging Spider.
The Texas folks are section hiking from Waynesboro to Harper’s Ferry. I had seen them on the trail late this afternoon and shared with them my affinity for indoor accommodations. After finishing my meal I felt obliged to apologize for disrupting their life in the woods with the suggestion of a room. All seemed to actually be a bit appreciative. After all, they can return to the rigors of tents and shelters tomorrow.

So as I sit in the Slyland dining facility working on this journal entry, I’m reminded of the other time I stayed here. When Alton and I section hiked from Harper’s Ferry to Rockfish Gap in 2006, we also took refuge here one night. Tomorrow I’m planning to get to Elkwallow Gap where Mike Evans will pick me up to take me to his Front Royal Hostel. Another hot day is in the forecast. I best get a good night’s rest so that I’ll be ready for another day of adventure on the Appalachian Trail.

Last night I probably slept as well as I ever have in a shelter. So when I awoke at 6:20, I was ready to get the day underway. After packing up and having breakfast, I followed Quicksilver and Peach out of camp. In less than a mile I passed them, never to see another hiker for the remainder of the morning. Once again, it was just me and the trail. Other than an occasional squirrel and one deer, seldom did I hear or see anything move on a still, very warm morning.

My plan for the day was to get to Swift Run Gap, near Elkton, and try to hitch a ride to town for lunch and trail food. When I reached the intersection where Skyline Drive intersects with US 33, I put out my thumb. Under the noonday heat the task was anything but fun. After about twenty minutes I changed my location; however, very few cars appeared. Eventually I decided to call the Country View Motel, about three miles down the road, and check on a room. Bob, the owner, said he would be right there to get me.

When today’s trail angel pulled up in his small pick-up, he was accompanied by Shadow, his dog. As I rode to the motel with Shadow perched between Bob and me, I thought about how much my brother would have enjoyed the ride. It’s beginning to seem like every day I meet a new dog that reminds me of Don. Shadow ranks right up there with the “best” that I’ve encountered on the hike.

Since it was only a little after noon and I had only hiked 11.6 miles, I asked Bob if he would slack pack me a few more miles this afternoon. He agreed. First we drove into Elkton where I bought a bag of burgers. Then when we got back to the trail, I found a shady spot near the trailhead to have lunch before embarking on the afternoon portion of the hike. When I did begin I hiked at a quick pace, covering 8.3 additional miles in a little over thee hours. I saw another small bear at a distance and a second deer practically standing on the trail. Only one lone southbound hiker crossed my path.

At the junction to a trail leading to a falls, I paused to chat with a family from Baltimore who were day hiking to a favorite place of Becky, the daughter who was celebrating her 21st birthday. After moving on my pace slowed as the heat began to bother me. I drank almost continuously to stay hydrated. Even so I felt depleted by the time I reached the Lewis Mountain campground. Staggering through the parking lot, I was directed to the camp store by a lady at one of the RV spots.

Having arrived over thirty minutes before Bob was scheduled to pick me up, I bought a soft drink and sat on a bench outside. A young man who said his name was Clifton sat beside me as his wife shopped. He asked about my hike, so I enlightened him somewhat on the AT. Finally Bob and Shadow arrived for the trip back to the motel. On the drive Bob shared some of his personal story. A Rhode Island native, he moved to Virginia a few years back, bought a farm as well as the Country View Motel.

After a shower, a nap, and a meal, I sat outside chatting with Quicksilver and Peach for a while. Bob, who turned 62 six days after I did, brought us each a piece of his birthday cake. With Bob’s permission, I shared some of mine with Shadow. As fatigue began to set in, I retired to my room to get ready for tomorrow’s hike. Again, I have options so when the day begins, I’m not sure where I’ll be when it ends. One thing is for sure, however, I’ll be a little farther north along the Appalachian Trail.

“Don’s Brother PALS in Site A17 Love to see you” read the sign tied to a tree on the trail. It’s common for AT thru hikers to leave messages for those that may be hiking behind them. It was the first, however, that had been left for me. With both excitement and nervousness I walked up the short trail leading to the campsite. When a camper came into view, I heard a dog bark. A lady who appeared in the doorway asked, “Are you Don’s Brother?” “Yes, I am,” I replied.

The lady introduced herself as Chris. As Chris calmed Lucky, a gentleman with a broad smile on his face walked out of the camper. I shook Bob Anderson’s hand and then gave him an emotional hug. I don’t remember the ALS patient ever stop smiling during my visit. Even though his speech has diminished radically, Bob still walks and enjoys camping with his wife and dog. We took several pictures and discussed Don a little. Within a minute Lucky was also my friend. I imagined how much my brother would have loved petting the former pound puppy. Wishing I could stay longer, I explained that I needed to move on to reach my destination for the day.

Before seeing my sign and meeting Bob, Chris, and Lucky, I fully expected that the highlight of the day would be two bear sightings. As Jim (Mr. Gizmo) Wilson drove me back up Skyline Drive to Blackrock Gap, twice we stopped to observe bears. The first, a yearling, stood in the middle of the highway. Only after we crept very close did he move to the side of the road. The second was an older bear who paid no attention to us when Jim came to a stop so that I could take a picture. He nonchalantly kept grazing even as we drove away.

When I did begin hiking I thought that another bear would certainly appear since fresh scat littered the trail. No bear, however, came forward to claim the deposits. With what was supposed to be another big mileage day, I started the hike at a quick pace. With continued gentle terrain, all went well early. The views also returned. Atop Loft Mountain I dropped my pack to sit on a rock and just relax for awhile. Then after the visit with the Anderson’s, I walked down the Frazier Discovery Trail to the Loft Mountain Wayside, one of several that offer short order foods in the Shenandoah’s.

Even though the blue blazed trail required an additional .6 mile hilly hike each way, the burger was well worth it. Also at the wayside were Quicksilver and Peach, Pacemaker and Runner-up, and Tugboat and Life-raft. I hadn’t seen Tugboat since we shared the bunkhouse at the Troutdale Baptist Church Hostel. I ate a long leisurely lunch which I think may have been my downfall. I hiked sluggishly for the remainder of the afternoon. Because of my lack of energy, I decided to stop short at the Pinefield Hut with a 13.9 mile day.

When I arrived at the shelter several others were already there. I had met Christian and Annalena, a brother and sister from Germany, earlier on the afternoon. Christian is an exchange student at Virginia Tech. Two section hikers from France, Maz and Chef, were brewing up some tea. Tugboat and Life-raft stopped for a short nap before moving on up the trail. A little later Quicksilver and Peach also arrived. Pinefield Hut looks like a pretty nice shelter. There should be room for everyone.
Rain is also in the forecast for tonight, so others may arrive before dark.

As I’ve said before, every morning when I awake I have no idea what will unexpectedly occur on the trail. Today I had the honor and privilege to meet Bob and Chris Anderson and Lucky. Bob’s smile will remain with me throughout my hike. As I walked away from Bob, I thought about my brother. Don had a beautiful smile too. And today I think he was also smiling as his brother continued walking north on the Appalachian Trail.

Welcome to the Shenandoah National Park. Today marked the beginning of an approximately 100 mile stroll through one of the least challenging sections of the entire Appalachian Trail. From Rockfish Gap the trail crosses a bridge over I-64 before re-entering the woods. After being dropped off by free shuttlers Jim and Cindy, Caboose and I briefly started the day together. After the self sign-in station near the trailhead, I wouldn’t see him again. This time, however, it was because I hiked at a faster clip throughout the day.

With a gentle trail and a Cracker Barrel breakfast under my belt, there was no holding me back. Throughout the park the trail crosses Skyline Drive several times every day. On today’s hike there were eight such crossings. Some had overlooks; some didn’t. Some had parking lots; others didn’t. Oftentimes cars of day hikers filled the parking spots. Before some of the crossings the trail ran parallel to the road so closely that cars were clearly visible.

At one crossing I took a break to have some lunch with fellow thru hiker Steady. We had met about a week ago at the James River but had not hiked together before today. Steady is Spirit’s husband and has quite the hiking resume. Unlike most AT thru hikers, Steady began his quest in Key West. After kayaking 700 miles, he road walked most of the rest of the way to Springer. When he gets to Katahdin he plans to continue on to Halifax, which will make his entire adventure over 4000 miles. Already having completed the PCT and the CDT, the AT will complete his triple crown.

Late in the afternoon I passed two section hikers from Newnan, GA. Silver Streak and Peach plan to conclude this section at Harper’s Ferry. After a brief chat, I moved on up the trail to Riprap parking area off Skyline Drive, where I had originally planned to end today’s hike. When I got there, however, I decided to hike an additional 2.8 to Black Rock Gap. It was there that Jim picked me up for a shuttle back to Waynesboro and a final night at the Super 8.

Tomorrow I’ll head back there to continue the Shenandoah’s. Although the park is beautiful, views have thus far been limited. Other than from a power line area, there really wasn’t anything of significance. All in all, the time passed quickly. I managed to hike a comfortable 19.1 miles with good company and fresh legs. The Achilles feels fine, so tomorrow I have more miles planned as I make my way toward Harper’s Ferry, the next major town on the Appalachian Trail.