Author Archives: donsbrother4

Rain, rain, rain, rain! For the better part of the day I slogged through a steady drizzle of varying degrees. A continuous, somewhat cold wind added to my discomfort. With only a short 10.4 mile hike scheduled, and a motel room waiting at its conclusion, I persevered and managed to “remain vertical” throughout the day. Considering the extremely muddy downhill section descending into Pearisburg, that in itself was quite an accomplishment.

The day began nicely around the breakfast table at the Woods Hole Hostel. Like last night, Neville requested that we join hands and state that for which we are thankful. I said that I was thankful for my brother Don’s life. The same group of hikers, plus Owl and Zag, were served scrambled eggs with sausage and kale, cantaloupe, peach crisp with homemade yogurt, and fresh baked bread. A special coffee blend was also available. So much for trail food. I’ll take this kind of breakfast on any day.

Several hikers were choosing to forgo hiking today due to the poor weather conditions. In fact, when I walked away from the hostel, in a light sprinkle, no one else had left the building. The half mile walk up the gravel road leading to the trail set the mood for the entire day. I was wet before I stepped foot on the AT. Still the ascent from Sugar Run Rd. didn’t pose any serious obstacles despite numerous slippery rock slabs. Nevertheless I made good time even in the rain. And like yesterday, I saw two white tail deer in the first mile. It was disappointing, however, that all the views listed in my AT Guide were fogged in. I missed the view to the west at Angel’s Rest. For consolation I reminded myself of the spectacular vistas I had already been fortunate to have good weather days to enjoy.

With about four miles left in the hike I came across Snailmale, a section hiker from north Georgia who had stopped for a break. A little while later he caught me, so we hiked together into Pearisburg. Snailmale had been out for a 100 mile section hike which ended today. A postman in Chattanooga for thirty years, he has been using vacation time to hike the AT for a while, getting all the way from Springer to Pearisburg. A seminary graduate as well, Snailmale shared his faith with me as we hiked. I, in turn, talked about Don’s. Finishing the day in such fashion minimized the discomfort from the relentless rain.

When we reached the outskirts of town, we made a tactical error by not conferring with our guides. Not realizing that he had parked his truck just down Lane St., we continued the hike over the New River. Only then did we realize that we were walking away for Pearisburg. Backtracking across the river, we located Snailmale’s truck in a grassy lot just up the road from the trail. My new friend then drove me to my motel before beginning his homeward journey.

So tonight I’m in the Plaza Motel, not to be confused with a hotel by the same name at Central Park South and 5th Ave. in Manhattan. The amenities may not be the same, but hey, it’s an Appalachian Trail town. And considering the six hour walk in the rain, I couldn’t be more comfortable. I’m dry, I’ve had a meal, I’ll probably have another a little later, and the Braves are on TV tonight. Even on a wet day, all is good along the Appalachian Trail.

Sunday, May 5: Woods Hole, an 1880’s chestnut-log cabin, located half a mile off the trail down Sugar Run Rd., has welcomed hikers since 1986. Originally opened by Roy and Tillie Wood, their granddaughter Neville and her husband Michael are now the hostel’s proprietors. As I made my way toward the cabin, a light mist dampened my jacket. I was thankful that the threatening skies had not opened up earlier. Neville greeted me with a smile on the front porch. From there I was taken upstairs to select a room. After a little deliberation, I chose to splurge somewhat on the only single room available. When the hard rain arrived later in the afternoon, I was even more grateful for my cozy accommodations.

Earlier this morning I had been shuttled back to the trail by my now friend, Bubba. He had been kind enough to drop me by Subway first so that I could have breakfast while he drove two other hikers, Not Yet and Sunshine, back to the trailhead at US 52. By the time he returned I was ready for a planned short 13.9 mile day to the hostel. On this overcast, cool morning, I said my final thank you to my shuttler of the last three days before he drove away.

Within a few minutes of beginning the hike, I heard rustling leaves to my left. Two white tail deer peered in my direction. Pausing to take a picture, I thought of Don and the many deer that had walked onto his property. He often set a motion activated camera to catch their actions. For a minute or so, the deer and I stared at each other until I finally turned my attention to the trail.

Like so many other days, today’s hike started with a climb that led to a side trail to Dismal Falls. Since I wanted to arrive at the hostel as early as possible, I chose to forgo the falls. From there the trail leveled off over the next six miles. For a while it paralleled a stream, necessitating several water crossings. Some required rock skipping while others had footbridges. There were no less than six stream crossings during a one-mile stretch. Still I managed to stay dry and vertical.

When I reached the Wapiti Shelter, I stopped for lunch and signed the register. From there the trail ascended over the next three miles, culminating with a beautiful view to the east. During the climb I felt a little sluggish; however, overall I made good time throughout the day. Just after Big Horse Gap signs of a recent controlled burn altered the landscape. For about a one mile segment, charred remains of foliage and trees were visible. The burning smell still filled the air.

Up until late afternoon I had seen only two female southbound hikers. Then about a half mile before my turn, Torch passed by at a brisk pace. Reaching Sugar Run Rd. at 3:00, I took the turn toward the hostel. At the bottom of the gravel road I met three hikers who were waiting for a ride to Pearisburg. Cinnamon is the fourth hiker that I have met who is hiking in Brooks Cascadias.

Tonight was another special one. I enjoyed a communal meal of homemade pizza, bread, grilled cheese, and tomato soup, all prepared by Neville. Other hikers dining with me were Rainbow Braid, Sugar Bomb, Finder, and Novi. Before we ate, Neville asked that we join hands, tell our trail names, and share something for which we are thankful. I said I was grateful for the ability to walk and for my family. Each day I give thanks for both as I walk solitarily toward Maine. All continues to be good on the Appalachian trail.

Remembering Animal’s advice from yesterday, I listened to my body. It told me what I needed today was a slack pack and a bed. So with that in mind I made arrangements with Bubba to pick me up at VA 606 at the end of today’s hike. It proved to be a smart decision. With a cool, partly sunny day and gently level to downhill hiking for most of the trail, I cruised. In seven hours, which included two breaks of thirty minutes total, I covered the 18.6 miles feeling great!

The key to the day was a pancake, bacon, and coffee breakfast. A footlong sub also made its way up the trail with me. Food by far played a significantly positive role in today’s hike. With plenty of calories, unlike yesterday, nutrition was not an issue.

The hike today commenced with a 0.9 mile road walk, including an overpass of I-77. Just as I reached the woods, I encountered a southbound section hiker wearing a kilt, a popular piece of hiker attire for a few. Stinkbug asked me to take his picture and also took mine, saying that he would post it at whiteblaze.net. Within the next five minutes I met another German hiker who appeared rather distraught over what he said was a knee injury. Unable to continue, he was headed back to Bland. I didn’t get his trail name.

With a fairly easy trail, at least by AT standards, I hiked steadily from 9:15 until 11:30, when I stopped to eat my first lunch. I again hiked without a break until I reached VA 608, or Lickskillet Hollow, where I took a break by a small footbridge to have my second lunch. Just before taking out my sandwich, I noticed a group of northbound hikers walking toward me. I finally got to meet Hammer, a hiker whose name I had seen in several of the trail registries. With him were Torch, Rango, and Half and Half. Later in the afternoon I would pass Rango and Half and Half, both who were carrying what looked like very heavy packs.

After the second break I continued at a quick pace. I did pause to speak to three southbound section hikers from Tennessee; however, I failed to get their names because my phone rang. The highlight of my day was not a view; it was a call from my daughter, Rachel. We chatted for a few minutes as I walked on up the trail. I’m not sure if it was the call or the terrain, or maybe a combination of both, but I made great time for the last five miles of the day.

As I got to Kimberling Creek, just before VA 606 and the end of today’s hike, I paused to talk with Hammer and Torch, who were going to camp by the creek. When I commented that there had to be fish in the slow moving stream, Hammer got out fishing line to attach to his hiking pole. As I walked over the suspension bridge thinking about my brother, Hammer was preparing to try to catch some supper.

When I reached the road I walked the half mile to Trent’s Grocery, where Bubba was scheduled to pick me up. Shrek was there doing some re-supply, so we dropped him off at the trailhead before driving back to Bland. I really enjoyed the conversation with Bubba over the winding roads. Originally from Virginia Beach, he had settled in the area about five years ago. Once again, listening to a local resident talk about his community enriched my day and hike.

Hiking, like life, comes with its good days and bad days. Oftentimes, however, it’s not what occurs that matters as much as what we learn from our circumstances. With the ability and opportunity to get up each day and simply walk, there should never be any reason for complaint. I hiked well today and I am grateful. But more importantly I am thankful for all those who send up a prayer each day to help me along my way. The folks who are praying for me now are the same ones who prayed for Don during those final difficult fifteen months of his life. For them I am thankful just as I am thankful for each day I can continue my journey on the Appalachian Trail.

Emotional and physical ups and downs superseded the ups and downs of the trail today. From the outset my nutritional imbalance was evident. Without the good “town food” breakfast, I quickly noticed a diminished energy level. Even though I stopped and ate three times before noon, my pace was very slow. I attributed the slow hiking to both the long, hard day yesterday and to the lack of nutrients. Still I plodded along, early in the company of 20 something Nick (Shrek) and 66 year young All the Way. We hiked off and on together until just past the first road crossing. After that they pulled away.

Maybe it simply was due to my nutrition, but emotionally I just wasn’t in to hiking today. Even with some nice nearly level stretches, the hike was more drudgery than it was enjoyable. There was no gittyup in my stride. I merely plodded all day. Since views were minimal, I watched my feet to ensure I didn’t trip on a rock or root. I drank often to at least stay hydrated. I rested more than on other days as well.

After about 11 miles, when I was approaching my low point of the day emotionally, I spotted a southbound hiker walking toward me carrying a bucket. “I’ve never seen a hiker carrying a bucket,” I commented. “Well, you have now,” replied Animal, a 2012 thru hiker whose journal I had read. Animal had carried the same bucket every step of his hike last year. He said it contained hiking supplies. When I told him I was dragging today, he gave me some advice based on his experience. “Listen to your body,” Animal advised. “It will tell you what to do.” After a 23.0 mile day yesterday and a 21.7 today, both with full packs, I think it’s trying to tell me something.

Within five minutes of meeting Animal, another southbound hiker came into view. Pulling out a small spiral notebook and pen, seemingly before he even stopped, the older gentleman immediately asked my trail name. He wore a T-shirt with a large letter “B” over the word “Wrestling.” Identifying himself as the Coach of Pennsylvania, Randy quickly gave me a brief history of his collegiate wrestling background as well as his coaching accomplishments. He hikes a portion of the AT every year just to, in his words, “offer motivation” to the would be thru hikers. Was his timing ever accurate for my day! Before I finally broke away to hike on up the trail, the coach drew a symbol in the dirt, explaining how the hike and life revolve around joy and hope. I almost choked up as I told Randy about my Hike of Hope. The coach was certainly at the right place, at the right time today. It was a pleasure meeting and talking to Randy.

After our chat I seemed to have more enthusiasm even though my pace still lagged. At one point during the final two miles, I walked into a large, overhanging tree limb which about knocked me down. Stunned from the unsuspecting collision, I just stood and stared in the opposite direction for a couple of minutes. It wasn’t the first, and probably won’t be the last time I walk into a limb. Then within the next few minutes I heard rustling just to the left of me. As I looked down the side of the mountain a young bear was scampering away. When he paused to look back in my direction, I tried to zoom in for a picture, but he blended in too well with the trees. It took me almost 600 miles to see my first bear of the thru hike. I sure hope there’s another bear in my vicinity real soon.

The last one-half mile of today’s hike travelled a gravel road down to US 52 near Bland, VA. As I reached the highway I phoned a local shuttler, Bubba, for a ride to the only motel in town. It’s actually just off an I-77 exit. After checking in and showering, I walked across the road to a Dairy Queen for some much needed food. It’s amazing how much better the body and soul will feel after some hot food, even if it is fast food.

Today was a difficult one on the trail. At times I asked myself if I would rather be working in the real world. Remembering that restaurants are plentiful in that other world, I almost said yes. While contemplating the differences, I began singing the Rolling Stones’ “You can’t always get what you want.” I didn’t have the best of hiking days today, but “sometimes we get what we need.” I walked on and I learned. And through it all I thought about my brother. He walked with me today in a profound spiritual sense. I needed Don today. But more importantly I needed to remember that above all, in good times and not so good, that I was in the place that my brother loved. Yes, without a doubt, …….Don loved the woods.

I’m a little tired. As I write this journal entry I’m in my sleeping bag at Chestnut Knob Shelter after a personal best 23.0 mile day. This shelter is made of cinder blocks, and has four sides and a door. Officially I’ve passed the 25% mark of the trail. The section hiker to my right is already snoring and it’s still light outside. I’m comfortable despite the howling wind. Fortunately, my 10 degree bag will keep me warm. I hope to stay awake at least until dark which will give me a better chance of sleeping through the night.

Today’s hike began with a short walk under Interstate 81 near Atkins, VA. After leaving the road, the trail followed a grassy path before moving back into the woods. Like other recent days, I saw no other hikers throughout the morning. Two local ladies, out for a day hike, asked about my thru hike. I also met Dustin who had walked up the trail during his lunch break from a crew he was supervising that was re-marking part of a nearby road.

The trail today again crossed a few cow pastures. Stiles were plentiful. I even sat on one as a I ate my lunch. Several water crossings also dotted the trail. I crossed numerous foot bridges and walked by a couple of creeks. Each time I paused to look for fish, thinking about my brother. Don would definitely have liked all the potential fishing holes. I saw no fish, but I’m sure they were there.

After crossing one stream I discovered some trail magic provided by former thru hikers, Lumbermack and Lab Rat. When I reached the Knot Maul Branch Shelter I stopped for another break. Smiles, a young man from England, who hikes with the Union Jack on his pack, was taking a break. Not feeling great, he had decided to stay the night even though it was only 1:45. I thought about it myself since I had already hiked 13.9; however, I hate to stop that early, so I moved on after about thirty minutes. Even though I knew the last 9.1 would pose a challenge, I liked the idea of putting myself in position to hit Bland and another room tomorrow.

During the next portion of trail, I met a few section hikers including Pat and the Virginia Creepers. They stopped to camp at Lick Creek right before the final five mile climb up Chestnut Knob. Also tenting by the creek was Tonto. I paused for about fifteen minutes to talk with the former Chicago resident who had also coached cross-country and track in the past. Tonto is section hiking southbound from Waynesboro to Damascus. Before moving on I shared some of my jelly beans with him. He said he would check out my web site and wished me well.

After beginning the final climb (and most challenging) of the day, I realized that my energy level was slightly diminishing. So I ate jelly beans and kept drinking as I hiked. The most beautiful views of the day awaited me as I reached the open, grassy field of Chestnut Knob. Had I not needed to get to the shelter before it got too late, I think I would have just sat and enjoyed the view awhile. When I did reach the shelter, I got the last bunk space. Already here were Grand Bob, All The Way, Zag, Owl, and two section hikers. A little later Nick arrived. I hadn’t seen him in about a week.

Now it’s almost dark and I’m the only hiker in the shelter with headlamp on and not settled in to sleep. For me, even though I’m tired, a little music awaits. It’s been another very satisfying day. I hiked big miles, have eaten well, met some more good folks, and like every other day, was treated to some of the most beautiful scenery that the world has to offer. I suppose I best get this edited and posted because, like my fellow sojourners, rest is needed so that more good hiking may be accomplished tomorrow on the northward journey up the Appalachian Trail.

The town of Marion provides a shuttle bus “up the mountain” three times a day for the meager fee of 50 cents. So Not Yet, Sunshine, and I were waiting outside the Econo Lodge for the ride back to the trail at 9:00. When we arrived at the Mt. Rogers Visitor Center, several hikers, who had stayed at the Partnership Shelter last night, boarded for town. Some didn’t have their packs, expecting to simply re-supply and then return to the trail. Outfitter, In Progress, and Bubblegum were among them. We greeted each other and then I crossed the road for the trail. At the time I didn’t know it, but these would be the only hikers I would see for the remainder of the day.

The hike began with several minor ups and downs before leveling off at the crest of Glade Mountain. By far the best scenery of the day, I rested for a few minutes on a rock just enjoying the view. Trying to drink more today in preparation for the warmer days which are right around the corner, I downed about ten ounces of water with some food as I relaxed. Then I hiked at a good pace for the next two hours.

I did take another break at the Chatfield Shelter. Something I have not been doing regularly is signing the logs at the shelters. Today, however, I wrote a little, and signed my trail name along with “Don loved the woods.” I also read entries from the past few days to see how many hikers that I knew had stopped by this shelter. Titan had been there the day before me. The only other hiker that I recognized was Tugboat.

The hike was on the mundane side until the final few miles. About three miles before reaching VA 683, I noticed a marker that said, “1890 Farm.” I took the side trail for about one hundred yards to a well-preserved farm from the late 19th century. As I walked around the old homestead I thought about how much my brother would have liked this site. It reminded me in many ways of the home of our grandparents in rural Dale County, AL. Don would have really been impressed with the old farm equipment which included a plow like our granddaddy used when we were kids. I took more pics at the farm than I did in the woods today.

After walking the side trail back to the AT, I moved quickly once again to reach the road a little after 2:00. Just before VA 729 I came upon an old one room schoolhouse. Etched in the weathered wood above the door appeared “Lindamood School 1894. History on the trail continues to fascinate me. For a couple of minutes I paused to think of how it must have been in the area almost 120 years ago. Children from the farm had probably attended the school. I wondered if any of their descendants still live in the community.

The trail wound through a grassy field for most of the final two miles to VA 683, US 11, I-81 in Atkins, VA. When I arrived at the road I finally saw one solitary hiker walking toward me. PePaw is northbound, but was headed to the Relax Inn after a meal at the Farm. Many hikers stay at the small local motel just a few feet off the trail. While I was talking with PePaw, Molar Man and Diane drove up to give me a ride back to Marion. After a hot shower I walked down to the KFC for some more chicken and sat with Bubblegum as he literally devoured the buffet. Bubblegum, from near Richmond, is one year older than I am. He is a strong hiker who I’ve seem on the trail a few times.

The mind goes everywhere during five hours of solitary walking. How often in the real world do we have the opportunity to spend this much uninterrupted time with ourselves? At times throughout the day I sang silently my favorite Bee Gees tune in recognition of the new month. “When I was small and Christmas trees were tall, we used to love while others used to play…….now we are tall and Christmas trees are small, and you don’t ask the time of day, but you and I, our love will never die, but guess we’ll cry, come First of May.”

Once again I appreciate all the text messages, emails, and comments when I fail to post on any given day. Since some have expressed concern, I thought I’d pose a multiple choice question for the answer. Don’s Brother writes every day; however, he has been unable to post his entries over the past few days because he (a) had his pack stolen by a bear (b) fell off a mountain (c) had no cell phone service (d) decided to leave the trail and fly to Argentina (e) was kidnapped by mountain people who refused to release him until he learned to pluck the banjo. “e” should be the first to be eliminated. All the mountain folks I have met have been both kind and helpful. “a” is highly unlikely since there are rarely bear encounters on the AT. I have considered “d” a couple of times; however I’m traveling without my passport. That leaves “b” and “c.” Almost every day I hike near the edge of a mountain, but falls are also rare. Plus, if that had happened, it would have probably been on the news. So if you answered “c” you are correct. I have been in one of the most rural, remote areas of the entire trail the past three days.

Since Mary had offered to drive any hikers to the trailhead who were waiting by the church at 7:20, I made sure I was ready at the designated time. Not Yet and Sunshine joined me by the road. We said our goodbyes and thank you’s to Mary before she drove away at Dickey Gap. I hiked away from the other two who had decided to have something to eat before beginning. Like yesterday, the gentle trail made for fast hiking. After a short climb, the trail descended for about seven miles.

At VA 672 trail magic in the form of a variety of snacks and soft drinks had been provided by the Valley View Baptist Church youth of Sugar Grove, VA. The church is located less than a mile down the gravel road near where the magic was left. I took an oatmeal pie and fig bar, but chose not to take one of the canned soft drinks. The churches in this area of Virginia support the hikers to the fullest. You have to admire young folks who take on projects like this. It appeared that it was an ongoing endeavor on their part.

Throughout much of the day I hiked to music. One aspect of what seems like the most popular country music station in the area is a fifteen minute devotional every weekday at noon. So there I was getting an inspirational message from the Bible between Blake Sheldon and Carrie Underwood. As I just said, the communities revolve around the churches in this neck of the woods.

When I reached the Partnership shelter, one of the nicest on the entire AT, I took a brief rest even though I was only 0.1 mile from the Mt. Rogers Visitors’ Center where I planned to conclude today’s hike. Matt and Scarecrow were the only two there, but it was early afternoon. This 16 person shelter, which has running water and a shower, is favored by AT hikers because pizza can be delivered. Still I needed to go into Marion since I hadn’t done laundry in a week and was almost out of food.

After walking across the road from the visitors’ center, I quickly got a ride from Travis in a work truck. Unfortunately, he could only take me to the edge of town which meant another road walk of about 3 miles, with a full pack, to a motel. I stopped on the way for a KFC meal and updated my journal after eating. Then I walked to and checked in at the Econo Lodge. I continued working on my journal after a shower, but knew I had to eventually walk over a mile to the laundromat. As I left my room, I spotted the white Volvo in the parking lot. Molar Man and Diane were here as well. The desk clerk was nice enough to give me their room number. Surprised to see me, Diane quickly volunteered to take me to do my laundry. After the chore, I made a stop at Walgreens and McDonald’s before returning to the room.

I arrived just in time to turn on the TV to see Tim Hudson’s home run. Thinking about my brother, I sent Brent and Sam text messages. Don always loved watching and discussing the Braves’ games with Brent and with me. I can’t think of a better ending to another great day of hiking than being able to watch Tim Hudson’s 200th victory. Tim showed kindness and compassion to Don when he was sick. I miss my brother greatly, but I carry many memories with me each day I take another step along the Appalachian Trail.

Monday, April 29: Rich pulled over his small tan pick-up truck in front of the Troutdale Baptist Church at daylight. I had walked down the hill from the hostel to a spot where Ken and Mary said I shouldn’t have a problem getting a ride. When Rich asked where I was headed, he said he would be happy to drive me to the log store about ten miles up the road and near the entrance to Grayson Highlands State Park. After I told Rich that I hoped to find someone at the store who would drive me to Massie Gap for $20, he said he would. Before heading into the park, he was even nice enough to stop at the store so that I could get a sausage biscuit and coffee.

As we drove I learned much about the man who was raised in the western Virginia mountains, moved away and raised his own family, but had to come home after his children had grown up. A true “salt of the earth” individual, Rich was on his way to a site where he was building a log cabin when he stopped to offer me a ride. After pointing out the cabin as we drove, the conversation turned to fishing. A trout fishing enthusiast, Rich tried to give me two of the mess he had on ice in the back of his truck. I thought about my brother as I listened to the excitement in Rich’s voice while he talked trout. Don would have surely relished talking fishing with Rich.

When we reached the parking lot at Massie Gap, I gratefully thanked Rich before he drove away. I insisted he take the twenty, even though he was reluctant to do so. Then I had to hike probably a mile on an AT blue-blazed spur trail back to the white-blazed AT. With an overcast sky and a gentle trail ahead, I hoped to hike the 18.3 miles to Dickey Gap by 4:00. Other than some light rain, all went well throughout the day.

I arrived at the Wise Shelter, the 500 mile mark on the trail, and took a brief break. Another thru hiker, Long Gone, was packing up to leave. I tried to hike with him, but within about three minutes Long Gone was long gone. I also met Jonathan, a ridge runner who was doing a loop trail. Throughout the day I also ran into the Raisin Bran Kid, who has decided to do some shorter days to allow his injury to heel. He was hiking with a friend from Ohio, Morel. I also encountered Alloy and Sandalwood, the section hikers from Ontario.

When I reached the Old Orchard Shelter I took another short break. Matt, a section hiker from Atlanta, was the only one there. A little later at Fox Creek I met Not Yet and Sunshine, a couple from the DC area. From Fox Creek the trail ascended about 800 feet over two miles; however, the climb involved many switchbacks. Along the way I met Rangeley, a section hiker who was out until late May. Hiking solo throughout the day proved peaceful and afforded me plenty of solitude.

The day passed quickly. I made it to Dickey Gap a little before 4:00. Not Yet and Sunshine were by the road hoping to hitch a ride to the hostel. The three of us tried unsuccessfully for about fifteen minutes before I decided to just walk the 2.6 miles. Shortly after I arrived, Not Yet, Sunshine, Outfitter, and In Progress walked up. They had gotten a ride part of the way. Also at the hostel for the night were Disciple and his black retriever, Coy, and Keyl, another cross country cyclist. Originally from North Carolina, Keyl now lives in California. Coming from a bicycling family, Keyl hopes to at least make Colorado before having to go back to work.

Not having eaten well all day, I broached the subject with the others about trying to get a ride to the log cabin restaurant. Only Not Yet and Sunshine were interested. As fate would have it, about that time a small car drove up toward the hostel. Joss and Jess happily offered us the ride. Both delightful young folks sported colorful tattoos and had great personalities. Again there was enthusiasm in their voices as they discussed the beauty of the western Virginia mountains. When they dropped us at the log cabin, I told them they were true trail angels. With smiles on their faces, they said they’d be back to give us a ride back to the hostel a little later.

After an outstanding supper and ride back to the hostel from Josh and Jess, I spent the rest of the evening chatting with all the others. I especially enjoyed being around Coy. Another very well-behaved dog, he seemed to like everyone. Don would really like all these great trail dogs I’m meeting. Finally darkness interrupted all the socializing, as a bunkhouse full of fatigued hikers retired for the night after another satisfying day of hiking on the Appalachian Trail.

Sunday, April 28: Howling winds and heavy rain awoke me at dawn. Realizing that I was in a warm, clean, dry bunkhouse, and that I wasn’t going to hike today, I quickly decided to sleep for a little longer. My tired body thanked me. Then when I did get up, I walked to the shower facility, showered, and got ready for church. Since the rain was still steadily falling, I donned my rain gear for the walk of about 200 yards to the Troutdale Baptist Church.

Ken Riggins, the pastor, taught the Sunday School lesson from the book of Leviticus. He also correlated scripture from other books in the old and new testaments. Then at 11:00 Ken delivered an impassioned sermon centered around the book of 1 Peter. Molar Man and Diane sat on the pew with me and Titan also attended. At the conclusion of the service, Ken said a special prayer for me as well as for all the other hikers on the trail. My hike has truly been enriched by being able to hear Ken preach. It was also special meeting and talking with members of the small congregation.

After church Titan and I walked back to the bunkhouse. Ken had told us that he would drive up to take us back to his home for lunch in about half an hour. Rain still fell as we drove the quarter mile to the Riggens’ home where we were treated to a wonderful Sunday dinner. Mary had prepared baked spaghetti , chicken, baked sweet potatoes, green beans, and homemade biscuits. There was also a chocolate bread pudding for dessert. Great fellowship and conversation accompanied the meal and continued for an hour or so afterwards. The Riggins were especially interested in Don’s life and illness. We also discussed his strong faith while he was sick. Before leaving the Riggins’ home, I called Linda and my mom since there is no cell service in the area.

After Ken drove us back to the bunkhouse, he picked up two other hikers at Dickey Gap, Taz and Owl. A little later in the afternoon Sun Duk arrived on his bicycle. The native South Korean recently completed his Master’s degree at the University of North Carolina at Chapel Hill. He is on the fifth day of a cross country bike ride by himself. After the ride he hopes to reside in California. Titan and I enjoyed comparing hiking logistics to cycling logistics with Sun.

I spent most of my afternoon relaxing. I took a long nap and journaled for awhile. Then after a light supper I worked on tomorrow’s plan before bed. Today has been another special one. I did no hiking yet every minute was well spent. Once again it’s the people along the way that make the journey so rewarding. From Titan to Ken and Mary to Sun Duk, I continue to be surrounded by good folks. Tomorrow there’s the certainty that I’ll meet other special people who will in some small way contribute to my northward journey on the Appalachian Trail.

Saturday, April 27: The day began with my third and final breakfast at Cowboy’s before leaving Damascus. Tom, the Raisin Bran Kid, joined me. While we were discussing Tom’s injury, Orange Peel, who was at the next table, joined the discussion with a similar injury of his own. In fact, I’ve met no fewer than six hikers recently with some kind of shin or knee issue. Tom is very discouraged, trying to decide whether to hike fewer miles or return home for a couple of weeks of rest. It’s almost impossible to console an injured AT thru hiker.

During breakfast a gray haired gentleman with a pleasant countenance stopped by the table to ask how we were enjoying our food. When he offered to refill my coffee, I asked if he owned the place. Indeed, I was in the presence of Ken “Cowboy” Fritz. It was a pleasure chatting with Ken awhile. He showed great compassion when I explained about my Hike of Hope for Don. Ken also agreed to a picture with me. So again, I’ve had the honor of meeting an AT legend.

Just about the time I finished my blueberry pancakes and bacon, Journey pulled up in her rental car. Since she had offered to drive me back to the trail in trail angel capacity, I saved the cost of a shuttle again. It was good to share a pleasant conversation with Journey over the winding roads. She lamented that the abundant mountain laurel and rhododendron were not yet in bloom. When we arrived at my drop off point I wished her well before walking back into the woods.

Shortly after beginning today’s hike I passed Toast who was replenishing her platypus at a stream. Then I met Rusty, a recent graduate of the University of Pennsylvania. We hiked in tandem for a brief while. I think he was holding back his pace out of respect since I was enjoying our conversation. Both of the two young folks were at the first road I passed receiving some mid-morning trail magic from none other than Diane, Mrs. Molar Man. People just keep on reappearing on the Appalachian Trail.

Other than Rusty and Toast the only other thru hiker I saw all day was Heartwalker. When I saw him yesterday, I thought he was sectioning. Today he told me his story. He started a thru hike in 2010, but broke an ankle near Laurel Falls. So this year he picked up where he left the trail in 2010 near Erwin. Heartwalker hiked right behind me to Thomas Knob Shelter where he stopped for the night. I also met several southbound section hikers including a foursome from Hillsborough, NC who I told about Don.

After a brief break I made my way on up the trail which included a climb of 2000 feet over the next four miles. The climb culminated with the ascent of Whitetop Mountain at 5190 feet. Once again I was treated to panoramic views at the crest. Even though the sky was partly overcast, I counted seven mountain ranges in the distance. After Whitetop the trail became a mass of gnarled roots for a good while. At one point I caught my foot between two roots which resulted in a fall. It seems like I’m falling about once every three or four days. Concentration is of the utmost importance at all times.

When I reached HWY 601 Diane was again there waiting for Molar Man. I took her up on her offer to sit in the car to eat my lunch. The trail then entered the Grayson Highlands. I almost immediately encountered my first wild pony who walked right up to me and appeared to be trying to get in my pack. Hikers are discouraged from feeding the ponies, so I adhered to the park’s policy, saving my apple for myself. The pony was kind enough to pose for a close-up before I moved on up the trail. Unfortunately he was the only pony I would see the rest of the day.

Since I was trying to reach Massie Gap by 3:30, I didn’t take a side half mile trail up Mt. Rogers, the highest elevation in Virginia. When I discovered the difficulty of hiking over the large rock faces in the Highlands, I was glad of that decision. The tactical hiking delayed my arrival at Massie Gap by about half an hour. During the last mile I hiked briefly with five young ladies from Davidson College who were up in the Highlands for a day hike. When I commented on the challenging rocks, one assured me that she had first aide and was Red Cross certified.

A gentle rain began falling just as I reached the parking lot at Massie Gap which had to be at least a half mile off the trail. Mary Riggins from the Troutdale Baptist Church Hostel was scheduled to pick me up. Not seeing her, I waited about half an hour and then walked to the road to try to get cell service. Finally a car pulled up at the stop sign. I regret not getting the couple’s name; however, they took the Riggins’ number and promised they would call when they got service. A short while later the couple returned to tell me there were two parking lots and Mary was in the other one. It was a relief when she came into sight.

I appreciate so much people like Mary who are willing to help out a hiker. Already at the hostel when I arrived were Titan and Tugboat. The hostel is actually two bunkhouses with four bunks in each, so I’m in one and the two young guys are sharing the other. They did come over to my side for supper and some hiker banter. It was good to converse with the two throughout the evening.

Since there is no phone service in the area, I’m unable to post on the same day for the first time in a couple of weeks. Tomorrow morning I plan to attend Sunday School and church and then take a day off here. The forecast is for more rain, so that seems like a good plan. It’s very quiet in this rural setting. A steady drizzle will lull me to sleep after another satisfying day hiking the Appalachian Trail.